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I like to make cylinder style pencil cases and this video show how to design and build one. Leathercraft projects can become very complicated if you are not organized or do not have some sort of a plan. This is especially so when you have several projects started and when project checklists become very important organizational tools. For those of us that like to make furniture a project checklist is essential, and I have adapted the organizational skills I used in studio woodworking to my leather studio projects because it is a system that works well for me. My approach to leathercraft is not to simply rush though to get it done because I enjoy the artisan process of being a maker and spend a lot of my free time in my workshop. However, sometimes life gets busy so if you are in the middle of a project and are pulled away from it you can ask yourself how confusing your project will be without instructions when you get back to it. As an example, this is the checklist I created for making a leather cylinder case to help me keep track of my progress. Leather Cylinder Pencil Case Project Checklist: Idea – I wanted to make a fancy toolbox for my mechanical pencils. This is not my first pencil case, so I am looking to challenge myself with more complicated features. Sketch A Cylinder Case Shape – For simple small cases I like to use dowels and blocks of wood called a last to mold the case around. A last will also help apply even pressure during glue-up to create a strong bond, especially when gluing in a lining and want to remove pockets of air to make the lining nice and flat so it is an important design tool as well as assembly tool. I am lucky to live near a hardware store that sells wood dowels and moldings so I can buy 3’ lengths and cut them down with a small saw to various sizes. I sand and oil them to a hard polished finish and keep them in a little tool caddy with some clamps and other shaping tools for when I want to design a new case. Draft Accurate Drawing – To make a very detailed 9 x 2 ¼” pencil case I draw in1:1scale using AutocaddLT so I can use a laser cutter to print acrylic and mdf templates, molds or cut out and glue up jigs when needed. I drag a tape measure around the last and make the gussets to determine the exterior body length to match up exactly so for a 2” dowel I need about 7 inches and add an eighth of an inch on either end so the ends can be trimmed to fit. The molded gussets will fit on the end of a 2 inch dowel last so adding the exterior leather will make a maximum of 2 ¼” with an eighth of an inch trim on either side if needed depending on the circumference of the lining layer. Then I draw in the opening. Offset ½” on each side for the gusset and make the hole opening 6 and a half inches long by one inch wide. Offset the opening ½ inch on either side and an inch and a quarter from the ends. Then radius the ends ½” for a 1” radius when the ends are sewn together. Working from the bottom and having the seam come together at the top makes stitching the ends of the round case together easy and it is nice to have the case sit on a stable raised base so a small amount of the case will encounter the surface it is placed upon. A decorative 1” raised foot has a seam of 11/2” so I drew in the circle ¾” away from the edge of the gusset. Copy in the latch first, then draw the lid around it for a perfect fit. The pull is 5/8” wide and has a 1- ½” hollow lined top to grab with a ½” lined keeper. layout stitching seams – I use 5mm stitching chisels and scribe a line 3mm or 1/8” from the edge to establish a border and punch the holes on the inside of the line. I like to stay away from the edge to give me room to be able to polish the edge later and less chance the stitches will tear through the end.