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Free image processing tool for creating pink foliage from 590 nm infrared images: https://fullspectrumuk.com/apps/590pink/ Download the free Infrared Photography eBook here: https://www.fullspectrumuk.com/infrar... If you are in the EU or UK, we can convert your camera. Digital Camera Conversions to IR, Full Spectrum, or Astro: https://www.fullspectrumuk.com/shop1/... Converted Infrared Cameras for Sale: https://www.fullspectrumuk.com/shop1/... Converted Astro Cameras for Sale: https://www.fullspectrumuk.com/shop1/... Full Spectrum Converted Cameras: https://www.fullspectrumuk.com/shop1/... If you live in the USA, KolariVision is your local camera conversion service: https://kolarivision.com/product-cate... KolariVision Converted Cameras: https://kolarivision.com/product-cate... Infrared Photography Tools CLiR Infrared Photography Mastery – Complete IR Course and Software: https://kolarivision.com/product/clir... KolariVision IR Chrome Lens Filter: https://kolarivision.com/product/kola... Getting Started with Your Converted Infrared or Full-Spectrum Camera by Rob Shea: https://www.fullspectrumuk.com/gettin... Our Blog: https://www.fullspectrumuk.com Our Shop: https://www.fullspectrumuk.com/shop1 Our Instagram: / fullspectrumuk.com_ Our Facebook: / fullspectrumuk Modding the Sony A6000 to Full Spectrum for Anna This time we will modify this camera into a full spectrum camera. The idea behind making cameras full spectrum is to remove all the filters from the camera sensor. After the modification, the sensor starts to see the entire spectrum it is actually capable of seeing. Without any additional filters, images taken will look reddish. We can partially fix that with a custom white balance or convert images to black and white. There are various sensor mounting constructions. On this camera, the sensor sits on shims, and this is the simplest sensor mounting method. Other cameras have the sensor mounted on springs. That is a more complicated construction. Other cameras use rubber spacers instead of springs. That is also more complicated, as we need to use additional shims in certain conversions because the rubber spacers do not expand to the required length. Let’s proceed with the conversion. Make sure there is no battery and no memory card in the camera. Unscrew all exterior screws. There will be a few screws in the battery compartment. Remove the top. Disconnect the flash cable. Insulate the flash connector. Remove the plastic frame. Disconnect the button assembly, unscrew a few screws, and remove the metal plate. It also has the LCD ribbon cable attached. Carefully remove the black insulation. Remove the viewfinder. Disconnect all the cables from the main board. Remove the hot shoe slot. Unscrew the main board screws and take out the main board. Take out the plastic frame. Be careful, as it contains the flash capacitor. Unscrew the sensor screws and remove the sensor. Pick up the sensor shims. Do not mix them up. Remove the filter and the plastic frame from the sensor, then return the sensor to the camera. Discard the old shims. Make sure the replacement shims are of equal thickness. If not, add an additional shim in the thicker shim position to compensate for the difference. Assemble the camera. A correctly assembled camera will work straight away and will focus on distant objects.