Muggy Weld Copper to Aluminum Joint Weld Video скачать в хорошем качестве

Muggy Weld Copper to Aluminum Joint Weld Video

In this video I will show you how to do an aluminum to copper joint weld using muggy weld, and a heat gun, since muggy weld filler metal melts at about 350 degs, and a heat gun is usually somewhere around 750-1000 degs. As most techs know, repairing or soldering, brazing, welding aluminum is next to impossible with epoxies or any other method that has been presented to the market in the last 50 years, UNTIL NOW! Muggy Weld allows you to add filler metal to attach copper tubing to aluminum tubing, and the strength of the weld is 20,000 psi, stronger than both metal you are welding together! I prefer to use a heat gun when I use muggy weld for the aluminum and copper tubing I join together. You can also use a propane torch, but I have found it much easier to use the heat gun, to control the focus of the heat on the joint, where it best allows the filler metal to be drawn down into the joint, for a much better solid joint that is 20,000 psi strength when it cools and cures. The copper and aluminum will break or crack before the muggy weld filler metal, once it fully bonds and cures, in minutes, as soon as it cools. This is needed also when techs use too hot of a torch, the wrong torch, like oxy-acetylene, which is 3000-6000 degs, a cutting torch to cut metal, and they melt the alum to copper joints! Air acetylene is the proper torch for this size tubing, about 1400-1700 degs, but this too can cause the tubing to get too hot if you keep it on it too long, trying to get the solder to flow, and cause the alum to copper joint weld to melt, if you do not use heat absorbing paste to stop the transfer of heat to the weld joint. The actual process of heating the joint and applying the flux repeatedly, and adding the filler metal, takes only about 2-3 mins! So, when installing a component, if you screw up and melt an aluminum to copper joint, it is quick and easy to fix it, without removing the whole evaporator, by just repairing the filler metal joint and then it's fixed. If you have any questions, let me know. I will also be doing some new videos on using the proper torch, air acetylene, instead of oxy-acetylene, to avoid having to purge the system of carbon buildup, YOU ARE CAUSING, by using the WRONG TORCH, OXY-ACETYLENE OF 3000-6000 DEGS! I am not sure how this wrong craze got started, using oxy-acetylene on domestic refrigerators, but it is wrong and has caused a lot of time to be added to repairs, that is not necessary and lugging in a whole oxy-acetylene setup into a home, the popping when lighting the torch, the soot going up to the ceiling, all kinds of things that you just don't have with the proper torch, air acetylene, as well as the most damaging aspect of causing carbon buildup inside the tubing, and having to purge it out, so you do not damage the sealed system...it's insane why techs are doing this...when there is a proper way, and nobody is doing it, and it saves hours and a lot of trouble from repair jobs! Seems everyone learned wrong from youtube or something. Keep an eye out for my upcoming videos on air acetylene use, and you will be amazed at how easy it is to use, how small the tank is and easy to carry into the house, almost under your arm, and much less equipment you are lugging into the customer's house and so much less time you are spending on the job! If you want to learn the proper way to do things, it is always best to learn from the older generation, that learned properly, and rely less on youtube, that you do not know if someone is doing it right or not...and sadly in this case, most are not. aba appliance www.RefrigeratorPartReplacements.com www.RestoreYourSubZero.com Michael C Riley