9 - Finitura di manico e tastiera parte nona : verniciatura della cassetta piroli скачать в хорошем качестве

9 - Finitura di manico e tastiera parte nona : verniciatura della cassetta piroli

Verniciatura dell'interno della cassetta piroli Index of videos - English: https://davidesora.altervista.org/vid... Italiano: https://davidesora.altervista.org/video/ ENGLISH TRANSLATION of the written notes in the video : 00:07 - Neck and fingerboard finish - Part nine - Varnishing of the pegbox 00:20 - With Micromesh 3200 sandpaper on a semi-rigid support, smooth the internal faces of the jaws, carefully adjusting the lines of the inside margins of the colored paint, removing all possible smudges. 01:20 - To varnish the inside of the pegbox, use the same colored varnish as the rest of the violin. No preventive coats of natural varnish are required as the wood is already isolated with the casein and the mastic and turpentine applied at the beginning of the violin varnishing. Apply it in very thin and well distributed layers, particularly avoiding accumulations in the corners and on the outer edges, using a 6 mm wide sable brush with a cat's tongue shape. 04:04 - Apply the number of coats sufficient to obtain the desired intensity of color, allowing the varnish to dry well before applying each subsequent coat (at least two or three hours). Drain the brush well on the edge of the jar to avoid smearing and improper accumulation 06:40 - Once a satisfactory intensity is reached, with a 2 mm round pointed sable brush, touch up the areas that remain lighter until the color is as uniform as possible. Make several retouching cycles by applying very little paint to each brush stroke to avoid causing darker build-ups, allowing to dry well between one cycle and another. Twelve coats of colored varnish were needed to achieve the color seen in this video 08:06 - Using the 6mm brush, apply three or four coats of natural varnish to protect the colored layer, always letting to dry well between each coat. Also spread it on the outer faces of the jaws to protect them from subsequent sanding 10:21 - With small curved scrapers remove the dark lines caused by the accumulation of color on the edges of the jaws. Wet with water to keep the surface shiny and be able to evaluate its progressive lightening, being careful not to remove too much by whitening the edges. With Micromesh 3200 sandpaper on a semi-rigid support, sand only the upper face of the jaws in order to smooth the surface, taking care not to apply too much pressure on the edges which would immediately whiten. Finish with a coat of natural varnish to restore gloss and transparency, trying not to leave brush marks. I prefer not to sand also the inside of the peg box to leave there a more structured surface, creating a well-defined boundary between inside and outside 13:47 - Lastly, clean the nut from any varnish smudges. Use a curved, pointed scraper to get to the edge accurately, taking care not to lighten the border with the pegbox and using very little pressure to avoid scratching the ebony. Finish with Micromesh 3200 sandpaper to polish the ebony, and touch up the opaque parts of the pegbox with natural varnish to recreate the initial gloss, using the small and pointed brush with accuracy