🎥 Damp Myths Busted: The £££ Mistake That Made Things Worse 🧱💧🐛 скачать в хорошем качестве

🎥 Damp Myths Busted: The £££ Mistake That Made Things Worse 🧱💧🐛

00:00 👤 Client explains Rentokil confusion between rising damp and condensation misdiagnosis 01:23 🧱 Background on damp proofing history and Rentokil's approach 02:46 🧪 Suspected cause: hygroscopic salts from chimney 03:12 🌡️ Data logger results: high surface RH, dew point explanation 04:26 🔁 Dew point differential and ventilation principles 05:06 🪟 Vapour sources: kitchen, utility, radiator positioning 06:00 🐛 Woodworm and weevil: causes, types, and treatments 07:00 🧹 Removal and cleanup: HEPA vacuuming and antifungal spray 07:45 🌀 Importance of ventilation, drying, and using a fan 08:11 🧴 Repeating permethrin treatment, life cycle of beetles 08:50 🧯 Final summary: condensation and damp-proofing errors 🧾 CONCLUSION This corner damp issue was not caused by rising damp. Despite prior claims and extensive (and counterproductive) damp-proofing treatments, the root causes are: • Excess internal vapour (condensation), worsened by a lack of extractor fans, clothes drying indoors, and distant radiators. Excess vapour is defined as when internal dew points exceed external temperatures. Condensation will cause dampness for 6 - 9 months. • Hygroscopic salts within the chimney breast — a legacy of historic coal burning — were reactivated by moisture and have been misinterpreted as rising damp. These draw moisture from the air and can cause persistent dampness but are not a source of moisture and cause not result in the conditions that favour woodworm by themselves - that would be the condensation. • Penetrating damp is minimal but possible at low level around the rear wall due to prior presence of a water butt, some paint cracking, and missing plinth (only inconsequential short-term exposure). • Woodworm and fungal damage are evident in the floorboards beneath the affected area, with telltale signs such as frass and active bore holes, likely triggered and sustained by long-term condensation. The damp-proofing treatment applied by Rentokil in 2006 appears to have worsened the issue by reducing wall breathability, lowering internal wall temperatures, and thus increasing condensation risk. The good news is that this is fixable without major structural work. Breathable finishes, targeted drying, and better vapour management will allow the building to recover. ⸻ 🛠️ ACTIONS TO TAKE 1. Spray affected timber with permethrin (0.2% spray - such as widely available on Amazon - e.g. SAFEGUARD Soluguard) annually for 3 years to interrupt the woodworm life cycle. Remove decayed timber and a vacuum with HEPA filer to remove frass. Monitor for new holes either with photos making comparisons or paint with a primer. 2. Remove all visibly damaged parquet flooring in the affected corner. If required, replace only after the area has fully dried. 3. Install a continuous-flow dehumidifier in the affected room, ideally set to maintain internal dew points below the outside temperature, as a rule set humidity to 60% when at home and 70% when away. Use it especially at night and when away. 4. Use a fan to increase airflow in the affected corner, helping surface moisture evaporate more quickly. 5. Improve kitchen and utility room extraction by installing an externally ducted extractor fan. The current setup is not working and vapour is accumulating indoors. Cook with tops on pots and pans and or used a dehumidifier. 6. Avoid drying clothes indoors where possible, especially in cooler months. 7. Check and reinstate the external plinth fillet at the base of the wall to prevent splashback from rain hitting brickwork. 8. Inspect external walls for cracks or flaking paint and recoat with masonry paint the same as the original or more impermeable. 9. Monitor moisture levels using a damp meter or paired data loggers (e.g. via https://damp.ai/detect) and look for drying trends over the next 6–9 months.