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Sugar has long been a part of Taiwan’s agricultural history. Today, skilled craftspeople still continue traditional processes of sugar making that were developed centuries ago. In Tainan, two generations of sugar manufacturers make wood-fired brown sugar by hand. Around the turn of the century, this secret local industry was hidden in the mountains of Tainan County, because sugar production was tightly controlled by Taiwan Sugar, the official monopoly. Now these simple local techniques are revived and celebrated as a piece of local heritage. Bubbling syrup is stirred continuously in a huge vat. The fire beneath is fed by wood. This is a traditional method of making brown sugar by hand, revived by two generations of sugar makers, Chang Hsi-pin and Chang Yueh-teng. Chang Yueh-teng Sugar maker It has tied me together very closely with my family. In doing this work, there’s friction, we have to cut each other slack, we learn from each other and we all grow. Chang Yueh-teng grew up watching how hard his parents worked in the sugar industry. Aged 25, he returned home to the village of Guanshan, in Tainan’s Nanhua District, to inherit the sugar making business. Everything from the growing of sugarcane and the manual processes of traditional manufacturing to the modern arts of brand management and publicity is a craft and a piece of cultural heritage for Chang. Chang Yueh-teng Sugarmaker We’re making traditional wood-fired brown sugar. We use the traditional methods of Han Chinese culture. So for me, on a deeper level, it’s a kind of cultural heritage. Taiwan used to be known as the kingdom of sugarcane. Tainan in particular was famous for its sugar industry. But in the past, it was totally monopolized by official agencies. These traditional manual manufacturing processes reflect a particular moment in sugarcane-cultivation history, and are a deeply poignant process for older generations. Chiang Chun-nan GACC deputy head When I was a little boy, up in the mountains, you saw everywhere people growing sugarcane and making their own sugar. The syrup would be in whole buckets. It was delicious. Pure syrup, pure sugarcane juice. In the remote mountains everyone was eating it all the time. Guanshan has been home to this sugar business for two generations. It brings together history, craftsmanship and Taiwan’s local culinary culture. For more Taiwan news, tune in: Sun to Fri at 9:30 pm on Channel 152 Tue to Sat at 1 am on Channel 53 #台灣新聞 #TaiwanNews #民視新聞 #FTV新聞 #Taiwan