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It's candombe Montevideo. Anyone who spends time in Uruguay, especially if you are wandering around Montevideo just after dark, should keep your ears open for the sound of candombe—a drum-heavy rhythm and dance unique to Uruguay. Tango, dulce de leche and mate are claimed by other South American nations, but candombe is quintessentially Uruguayan. Even Mick Jagger when he came to the capital he ended up in Barrio Sur listening to montevideo candombe. You’ll see groups of drummers processing down the street accompanied by dancers at the head of the procession. Neighbours hang out on their balconies watching. Crowds gather to watch and follow along. Traffic will stop to let the drummers slowly cross the street. I ran upon the La Rodó comparsa—as the troupes are known—this Saturday on my way to visit a friend in Parque Rodó. It was about 8pm on San Salvador street. Earlier about 6pm on Carlos Gardel and Paraguay streets, in Barrio Sur/Palermo I’d heard another. Find out more about the history of candombe and how to blend in by going to the Guru’Guay website and searching on ‘candombe’.