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Thoughts: This one is a bit rushed since uploading for a friend, but it's good enough lol. Before anyone comments, I need to fix the spacebar yes, but it's partially just the nature of the plate design lol. Board looks good imo, to be honest not 100% sold on the logo and the weight but it's still cool enough, I really like the color and side profile. It's a bit tall and steep but fairly comfy and no issues there. This thing looked killer with just WoB but wanted to give euler a go for something a bit more fun and I think that works out, both kill it with the red plate (that's a really nice shade, that you can't easily see in the video lol). To me, this is one of the closer boards I've tried in replicating the dryer and more woody characteristic of older OTD like a 360c, it's nice and resonant while still feeling clean and controlled, very dry in sound and feel just makes typing pretty engaging without being harsh, it's stiff but not unyielding as well. It's not a 360c, but it feels like a modern iteration of one with a more fun direction and I can appreciate that. I had tried this with browns, but to be honest with the feel and sound of this board it just felt best with linear. The overall design of the board is pretty thoughtful from the mildly dimpled internal weight to the custom otd spaced pcb and oversized footers, just comes together to be a really fun board to type on, an improvement from the older nikas. The big problem with this build is the spacebar though, I swear it has a weird vibration and rattle no matter what I do, I thought it was the stabs but I don't actually think it is, it really just seems like the plate design because my 360c has the same sort of spacebar rattle/slap that just seems like inherent to the experience I guess. The internal oring of the 360 kinda reduces that a bit, maybe I'll have to try that here. Maybe it's a skill issue lol, it would be better without, but it is what it is and I'll live with it for what else the board offers lol. I normally don't have good luck with pretools since they just end up either overly scratchy or inconsistent sounding to me, but it really hits here, this board kinda screams for either vints or pretools and it really delivers when you give it that, it was too kinda monotone with hg for me. I went with 18mm 60g Geons that really feel like they fit well, I didn't like longer springs here since it felt too aggressive and snappy as it's already a snappy board itself. I really need to fix that spacebar if I can lol. Otherwise, happy with it and will keep it as is. Build: A7X Nika SE - Gray Aluminum Top Mount L+F+SS Cherry Pretool Reds (205 & 105, 18mm Geon 60g, TX Films) Cherry Clipins w/ Geon wires 1.2mm CEM3 Solder Copper Weight GMK Euler Equipment: Josephson C716 / Neumann U87i (Thiersch Reskin) → Crane Song Flamingo.1 → CS Interstellar (and Nikon D5500 cam mic) C716 head level, from seating position, on axis centered alphas, cardioid pattern, decoupled. U87i head level, directly above board, on axis, cardioid, decoupled. Max -.1db peak (excluding camera), no further processing. C716 is accurate and honest to typing in person to my ear, extremely sensitive though. U87i is also honest but slight sweetness and grandness with slight grit, reskin and mods add some clarity and slight treble boost at cost of smoothness, direct overhead for different perspective and how most people record their boards (not as realistic). Crappy cam mic cause why not. Bad IKEA slab into acoustic membrane on concrete (slightly hollow and thinner sounding, weighted down with heavy equipment, isolated from floor) Aiglatson Studio Synchronize Jacquard (thicker and slightly stiffer, partially isolates from desk)