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http://www.ronhazelton.com Update your concrete floor by laying tile with these step-by-step instructions. Learn more: http://bit.ly/2eM0Ei8 Follow Us On Twitter: / ronhazelton Like Us On Facebook: / ronhazeltonhousecalls Follow Us On Google+: https://plus.google.com/u/1/b/1065954... View Our Pinterest: / ronhazelton Don't Forget To Subscribe: / @housecallsdiy Transcript: If you're planning to install ceramic tile over concrete, here's a method of material you'll surely want to know about. Developed by master tile setter, Armen Tavey, it's designed to give you a professional quality job that will look great and last for decades. Creating attractive tile floors and walls like this over concrete and wallboard is quick and easy, using the “Tavey thin skin” method. To begin, apply the adhesive or glue directly to the floor using a knots trowel. In this example, we're going to go to the wall with the same adhesive. While the glue is still wet, lay this fiberglass reinforced paper on top of the adhesive. The joints can be overlapped or butted. The paper bonds securely to the glue and the glue adheres to the concrete underneath. Paper is also applied to the wall, ensuring that regardless of the condition of the wallboard, the tile that will eventually go on top, will be securely and permanently bonded. For the wall tiles we're using a premixed mastic applied with a knots trowel. Check the instructions on the mastic container for the correct trowel knot size. This two inch square tile comes in 12 x 12 mats that are simply pressed into the mastic. Notice that Armen Tavey, creator of the “thin skinned system”, starts at the bottom and works upward to prevent the tile sheets from sliding down when they're placed on the wall. Specially designed spacers created by Armen are inserted into the joints between the sheets, ensuring that the grout lines are straight, even and uniform. Their open design keeps the tile corners visible for perfect alignment. The floor tiles are going to be installed using thin set mortar. The powder is emptied into a bucket and first mixed to blend the dry ingredients. Then Armen slowly adds water until the mixture is smooth, lump free and about the consistency of sour cream. The mortar is applied to the reinforced paper as a thin skim coat that conditions the paper for a heavier application that will follow. After the skin coat dries, a second coat of mortar is applied using a knots trowel. The trowel is held at a consistent angle and the notches leave ridges of mortar that are uniform in height ensuring that each tile is fully supported by the mortar underneath. The tiles in this case, six inch squares, are pressed into the mortar bed, now notice how Armen slides the tiles from side to side, flattening the mortar ridges underneath and distributing the cement evenly across the back of the tile. A few taps from a mallet further ensures a good bond. Since they float, Armen often keeps his tile spacers in a bucket of water. Here, as on the wall, the spacers ensure joints that are consistent and straight. By cutting a spacer in half, it can be used around the edge where the floor meets the wall. With all the full tiles in place, it's time to cut those that will fit around the toilet flange. First Armen traces, then cuts out a paper template. Then he applies a couple of tape strips to a piece of tile and draws the shape onto the tape. Using a tile saw, he makes one large cut, then several smaller ones up to the line. Finally, for the finishing and smoothing, he uses the blade as a grinder. Sometimes the thin set mortar can squeeze up between tiles, leaving no room for the grout that will soon be applied, the dried mortar can be removed with a utility knife or grout saw. Vacuum any dust off the face of the tile and out of the grout joint. After the thin set has dried for at least 24 hours it's time for grout. The dry ingredients are mixed together to evenly distribute the color pigments, then the powder is added to a small amount of water and stirred. More water is added to the mixture until it's smooth and thoroughly blended to the consistency of pudding. A sponge rubber float is used to apply the grout. Armen first forces the material all the way to the bottom of the joint, completely filling it, then he tilts the float up on edge and moving diagonally from corner to corner removes any excess material from the face. If the float is not kept on the diagonal, it can scoop out grout previously put into the joint. Virtually the same technique is used on the smaller tiles. The grout is then left to dry, about 45 minutes to an hour, until the material is firm in the joints and a dry haze is visible on the face of the tile.