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The 71-year-old master Su Shui-mu, who was the oldest son in his family's second generation, has long jointly run the Yongshun Tofu Skin Shop with his 61-year-old brother Su Hung-yi. To date, Su Shui-mu has been making tofu skin at the shop for almost 60 years. Except for changes including grinding the soybeans with a grinding machine instead of stones, using an electric fan instead of hand fans, and heating with gas instead of coal, the two otherwise still use traditional methods. They also still staunchly operate their old workshop, which remains toasty warm throughout the year, as if guarding their family's heart. As the soy milk on the burner boils, they pull up and hang room-fulls of tofu skin, which is saturated with the Su family's full-bodied flavor and dedication.