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Click for more info and reviews of this Tekonsha Trailer Brake Controller: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brak... Check out some similar Trailer Brake Controller options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguidebc.htm Click for more info and reviews of this etrailer Trailer Brake Controller: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-... Check out some similar Trailer Brake Controller options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce... Click for more info and reviews of this HM23ZR: https://www.etrailer.com/p-HM23ZR.html Click for more info and reviews of this HM24YR: https://www.etrailer.com/p-HM24YR.html Click for more info and reviews of this HM26SR: https://www.etrailer.com/p-HM26SR.html Search for other popular Chevrolet Express Van parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2012... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! / etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t... Today on our 2012 Chevy Express Van we'll be installing the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake controller, part number 90885, in conjunction with Etrailer's ETBC7 brake controller install kit. We'll also be using an extra 10 feet of the gray duplex wire, part number ETBCXW; a Firestone fuse circuit tap kit, part number F2526; the no-drill mounting bracket from Tow Ready, part number 18136; and the Deka battery side bolt extender, part number DW05416. To begin our install we'll start with our new 7-pole connector and mounting bracket. We'll take the mounting bracket and secure it to the 7-pole connector with the hardware provided. Now with that done we'll go ahead and wrap up a portion of our wire with some black electrical tape. This will help clean up our install look and help hold our wires together. Next we'll go ahead and take the 7-pole bracket and secure it to our no-drill mounting bracket with the hardware provided. Now we can go ahead and mount the no-drill mounting bracket directly to our hitch using the worm clamp provided. Next we'll need to take the 4-pole connector that's already mounted on the vehicle, and the 4-pole connector out of the back of the 7-pole connector, and connect the two together. Note, I recommend you use some Edelman dielectric grease, part number 11755, in between these two connection points. Then anything left that squeezes out we'll go ahead and put into the end of the butt connectors for our black and blue wires. By using the dielectric grease it will help keep out the dirt, dust, debris, and especially moisture, to prevent corrosion. Next we'll go ahead and cut the purple wire short as it will not be used in this application. It is typically designed for reverse lights for the trailer. Another thing we can do to assist these two connectors to keeping a nice tight seal is taking a zip tie and wrapping around the two connectors to secure them together. Then we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the zip tie. Now we'll go ahead and take the gray duplex cable provided with our brake controller install kit and cut back several inches of the gray sheathing. Then we'll go ahead and strip back the black and white wires underneath. The black and white wire will connect black to black coming out of the back of the 7-pole connector, and white to blue. This blue wire will be the power going to our trailer braking. Now with this connection made we can go ahead and finish wrapping up our wires with some black electrical tape. Next we'll go ahead and take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal and the self-tapping screw provided with our install kit and secure it directly to the frame, grounding our new 7 and 4-pole connector. Now with that done, we're ready to go ahead and start routing the gray duplex cable. For this application we'll also be using a pull wire, which can be a stiff piece of wire, or in this case, a piece of air tubing. With an open channel we'll be able to route our wire inside the channel. Keep in mind, when routing your wire stay away from any moving components such as steering or suspension, or excessive heat such as exhaust. As we run our pull wire we'll then go ahead and attach it to the gray duplex cable with some electrical tape, and pull the gray duplex cable into position. Once we get it up to the front of the vehicle near the engine, we'll go ahead and route it through the top of the engine bay. Now we'll go back to the hitch and secure the wiring as necessary with the zip ties provided with our install kit. We'll cut off the excess from the zip tie and move to the top of the engine. After we make a mark in our gray duplex cable I'll then take my utility knife and strip back the gray sheathing to the end of the gray cable. Then we'll go ahead and cut off the sheathing and the white wire