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On Hehua Island in Tahiti lies a corner gently forgotten by time—Te Me’ae o Iipona. Entering this lush Puamau valley, the air is filled with the fragrance of damp earth and ancient plants. This is not only an archaeological site, but also the resting place of the Marcusian ancestors' souls, and a world-class cultural landmark. Gods Watching Over the Wilderness Passing through layers of verdant greenery, the entire altar site unfolds before your eyes. The site consists of numerous stone statues, their scale and exquisite craftsmanship breathtaking. To protect these precious cultural heritages, later generations built a wooden pavilion above the central statue. Under one of these pavilions, I saw the legendary 2.67-meter-tall main statue, Taka'ii. Carved from reddish-brown rock, it stands silently on a layered megalithic base. The statue's hands are clasped at its abdomen, the place where the *Mana* (spiritual energy) converges in Polynesian culture. Despite enduring centuries of weathering, his broad shoulders and steady silhouette still exude an unassailable sense of authority. Beside him, another statue, Fau Poe, is said to be his wife, the couple together guarding this sacred land. In another corner of the altar, I was deeply drawn to a remarkably vibrant stone sculpture: the rare reclining statue of Maki'i Taua Pepe. In most civilizations around the world that revere towering divinity, our ancestors carved the moment of childbirth here. This statue, regarded by the locals as akin to my country's "Goddess of Mercy" (the goddess of childbirth), embodies a primal reverence for the safety of mother and child and the cycle of life. In the silent valley, it radiates a captivating beauty, a fusion of motherhood and divinity; it is said that touching it will bring blessings for a smooth delivery. Whispers of History and Broken Lines Wandering along the timeline of the ruins, I seemed to witness a dialogue spanning centuries: • 1894-1896: German anthropologist Karl, with delight, documented these sleeping giants in the grass, the camera flash disturbing the valley's slumber for the first time. • 1956: Norwegian explorer Sol Heyerdahl, filled with fantasies of oceanic civilization, arrived here and personally reattached the broken arm of the reclining statue. The site reached its peak of prosperity around the 18th century. Research indicates that the Marcus Archipelago was once a center of Polynesian maritime culture, its artistic style even spreading as far as Hawaii and New Zealand. The early inhabitants meticulously planned their land, separating settlements from sacred altars, and rigorously demarcating the boundaries between the "Tapu" (sacred land) and the mortal realm. Eternal Serenity Our indigenous guide, Heiana, told us that even today, these ruins are still highly revered. This reflects the enduring vitality of the triune belief system of *"God, Man, and Nature"* established by our ancestors, which has survived to this day. At this moment, sunlight pierces through the clouds, dappling the moss-covered boulders. There are no church bells here, only the rustling of the mountain wind through the treetops. These statues witnessed the tribe's glory and also the fall of civilization. As I left, I looked back; the gods still stood silently, steadfast. They are not merely relics of history; they are the ever-flowing pulse of this land. 在大溪地的黑瓦奥岛,有一个被时间温柔遗忘的角落——Te Me’ae o Iipona。走进这片郁郁葱葱的Puamau山谷,空气中弥漫着湿润泥土与远古植物的芬芳。这里不仅是一处考古遗址,更是马库赛斯先民灵魂的栖息地,也是世界级的文化地标。 荒野中的众神守望 穿过层层掩映的绿意,整片祭坛遗址展现在眼前。遗址由众多石像组成,规模之宏大、神像之精美,令人惊叹。为了保护这些珍贵的文化遗产,后人在核心石像上方加盖了木质凉亭。 在其中一座凉亭下,我见到了传说中高达 2.67米 的主神像 Taka' ii。他由红褐色岩石雕刻而成,静静地伫立在层叠的巨石基座之上。神像双手交叠于腹部,那是波利尼西亚文化中“Mana”(灵气)交汇的地方。尽管历经数百年风雨,他宽阔的肩膀和稳健的轮廓依然散发出一种不可挑战的权威感。在他身边,另一尊神像 Fau Poe 据传是他的妻子,夫妻二人共同守望着这片神圣土地。 在祭坛的另一角,我被一尊极富生命力的石雕深深吸引,那便是罕见的横卧神像 Maki'i Taua Pepe。在全世界大多崇尚挺拔神性的文明里,先民们却在这里雕刻出了分娩的瞬间。这尊被当地人视如我国“送子观音”的神像,展现了母子平安与生命轮回的原始敬畏。在寂静的山谷中,它散发出一种母性与神性交织的、摄人心魄的美感,据说抚摸它会得到顺产的庇佑。 历史的低语与断痕 漫步在遗址的时间轴上,我仿佛看见了一场跨越世纪的对话: • 1894-1896年:德国人类学家卡尔在草丛中惊喜地记录了这些沉睡的巨人,相机闪光灯第一次惊扰了山谷的幽梦。 • 1956年:挪威探险家索尔·海尔达尔带着对大洋文明的幻想来到这里,亲手为那尊横卧神像接上了断裂的残臂。 该遗址在 18世纪前后 达到繁荣顶峰。研究表明,马库赛斯群岛曾是波利尼西亚航海文化的中心,其艺术风格甚至远播至夏威夷和新西兰。先民精细地规划了土地,将居住地与神圣的祭坛区分开来,严谨地划分了“圣地”(Tapu)与凡间的边界。 永恒的宁静 原住民导游 Heiana 告诉我们,即使在今天,这些遗址依然受到高度尊崇。这反映了先民建立的“神、人、自然”三位一体的信仰体系流传至今,具有极强的生命力。 此刻,阳光穿透云层,斑驳地洒在生苔的巨石上。这里没有教堂的钟声,只有山风掠过林梢的飒飒声。这些神像见证了部族的荣光,也目睹了文明的落幕。离开时,我回头望去,众神依然在静默中坚守。他们不只是历史的遗迹,他们就是这片土地从未消失的脉搏。