JellyFish Aquarium #3 - DIY Tank In Operation скачать в хорошем качестве

JellyFish Aquarium #3 - DIY Tank In Operation

If you have any questions about the tank or the jellyfish, please type them into the comments here. I haven't really attempted to make the tank very pretty. Just bare-bones and easy to maintain, The jellyfish ride the laminar water flow around the aquarium. This flow helps minimize the contact that the delicate jellyfish makes with the sides of the tank. It all starts with the spraybar which pushes the jellies down, away from the filter intake. The filter intake is huge compared to the small amount of water flowing through it. The large, diffused surface area ensures that the jellies don't get sucked in. The spraybar along with the tank's rounded corners create a smooth current around the perimeter of the aquarium. The jellyfish very rarely make significant contact the the sides of the aquarium. The filter intake screen is a filter pad from a canister filter. The water enters a thin chamber directly behind the screen and goes up and over a weir that keeps the water level in the main tank from fluctuating. The water is then channeled to where it drops into a chamber with bio-balls. Note the slow flow rate in the video. Jellyfish tanks only require enough flow to maintain the correct current pattern in the main tank. The water passes through the bio-balls and goes down, under a baffle which helps to minimize the bubbles being pumped back into the main tank. Then back up a narrow chamber that contains the heater and a bag of carbon. Then over another weir which maintains a constant water level in the bio-ball chamber. And, finally into the return pump chamber Where the thermometer is. The water is currently being kept at 75f and a specific gravity of 1.027. The return pump is a MarineLand Maxi-jet 400. This sends water up into 1/2" pvc pipe, thru a ball valve that allows the flow rate to be regulated and finally back out to the spraybar in the main tank. To encourage evaporation which cools the water some, there is a fan blowing across the surface of the aquarium's water. Between the fan and the heater, the aquarium's temperature is very stable There are two lights illuminating the aquarium. A blue LED strip above and a dim color changing LED strip under the tank. The curved corners are thin acrylic, bent into a 10" diameter curve by using a heat gun to soften the acrylic and a stove pipe as a form/mold. The rounded corners of the tank are removable and not water tight. I did that so I could use really thin acrylic and not worry about the water pressure. I just take 'em out occasionally and clean underneath them. -The spraybar is 1/2" pvc pipe with 1/8' holes drilled every half inch. -All of the pieces used to modify the tank are acrylic. -The acrylic is cemented together with Weld-On #4. -To hold the acrylic parts to the glass aquarium the edges were roughened and lots of MarineLand silicone was used to glue them in. -Since this build, I have now found that Dow Corning 795 or CWS is a MUCH better glue for gluing acrylic to glass.