PNV57E (ПНВ57Е) MODERNIZATION скачать в хорошем качестве

PNV57E (ПНВ57Е) MODERNIZATION

Special thanks to Gammatron for help, go check out his channel. Step by step process on modernizing a PNW57E. Things you'll need: Wire strippers/cutter DC power supply (you can use a 9v battery and alligator clips in place of this) Shrink tube Soldering iron and solder (you can use automotive butt connectors but I don't recommend it) Torch or heat gun Pliers, thin blade flat head screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, drill and small drill bits Beer and music (Molchat Doma) 3d printed adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476... BEFORE YOU MODIFY THE UNIT: Make sure you test it with a 9v battery. Just put the plug pins up to the terminals. If it doesn't power on, flip the battery around and try it again. If it doesn't power on with the terminals in either direction, your unit is most likely defective due to broken wires in the transformer. Return the unit if you can; if you can't, you can use the wiring schematic to try to repair the transformer circuit. Don't attempt unless you're fimiliar with soldering circuit boards, leave that to a pro. Steps: 1. Remove unit from the original helmet frame 2. Decide if you want to do a permanent modernization or a non permanent modernization 3. For permanent, cut the power cable to the length you desire and strip the outer insulation about an inch, then strip the insulation off each of the 7 wires 1/8". For non permanent, cut the adapter cable and strip the outer insulation back about 1" 4. For permanent, open up the transformer and find the schematic for the circuit; either in the bottom of the box or on the internet (Google "Pnv57e schematic"). Find the positive and negative inputs on the circuit board. Positive is typically a tab with 3 wires soldered to it on the very top, about an inch to the right of the far right upper corner. Negative is the silver disc thing on the far right corner about an inch down from the upper far right corner. Now that you have your polarity on the circuit board, just work your way back through the wires to find continuity and group/label wires accordingly. For non permanent, simply plug the stripped adapter into the main power cable plug and touch the 2 wires to the terminals of a 9v battery and label the wires with correct polarity. 5. For permanent, get 2 smaller shrink tubes for the positive and negative set of wires, and one big one to go over both sets of wires and the cable. Get your 9v battery box and cut the wires to the desired length, strip the tips. Place the 2 smaller shrink tubes over the battery box wires and the larger tube over the power cord on the transformer. Solder the battery box wires to the power cord for the transformer, wait for the solder to cool then slide the shrink tube over the bare metal and shrink them with heat. Then slide the bigger shrink tube over all that and shrink with heat. For non permanent, repeat the same process using the adapter instead of main power cord. 6. For permanent, pop a battery into the holder, flip the switch and test your work. If it doesn't power up, go back to step 4. For non permanent, plug the adapter into the main power cord and make sure your polarity is correct, pop a battery into the holder, flip the switch and test your work. If it doesn't power up, I don't know man, this method is pretty simple. Maybe you should just stop being poor and buy western nods. 7. Once the electronics are modernized, you will need mount it to a Norotos Rhino. This part is kind of tedious and annoying, but easy enough with patience. You'll need to print out the adapter, I recommend using PLA because it's strong yet flexible enough to possibly survive a hard impact. If you don't have a 3d printer, there are lots of online 3d printing services that can be used, it will cost $20-$40 depending on who you go with and material. Once you have the adapter, remove the bottom block on the norotos and the magnet. With those removed, you can take the springs off the screws and put them through the adapter and screw the adapter into the norotos. Once that is done, set the nods up right and lean the adapter onto the center post if the nods and screw the other piece of the adapter on. You can use small wood screws or a nut and bolt but for that method, you have to drill the holes larger and make some flat spots for the nuts with a dremel and that weakens the adapter. I recommend the wood screws and a tether from the nods to the norotos, just in case you bump your head and the adapter breaks, your nods don't hit the ground. I'm working on a solid steel adapter that just clips into the norotos like any other western device, but the 3d printed adapter works for now. 8. Now attach the transformer to the back of your helmet, for now I use zip ties on the arc rails but I've seen a holder made of elastic and velcro that velcros to the back of the helmet. I'd like to make a better system so that it can be quickly removed, maybe using a nvg shroud or picatiny rails. Any help would be appreciated.