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Ellkhorn Special: A First Ascent

On an unusually warm November day in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge in southwest Oklahoma, Russell Hooper made the first ascent of a project he first attempted 10 years ago. The Elkhorn Special, located in the Charons Gardens Wilderness area, has had few attempts since it was first established by Tony Wilson in the early 90s. A 35-45 minute cross-country hike over rugged terrain brings you to the top of a hill and the striking yellow-lichen covered wall that is Big Whiskey Peak. The Elkhorn Special climbs the left side of the wall directly to the shoulder of the formation. From the beginning, Elkhorn is relentless - with a heel-hook start on overhanging rock to a small slopey edge. By the second bolt you are pumped, but it is here that the real climbing begins; clinching "the razor" hold with your right, a long reach is made to the first hold in a series of granite slopers. Elkhorn embodies everything that a hard Wichitas climb is: thin, sharp, overly technical, sequential, and intimidating. The 5.12d rating may sound "moderate" in the age of 5.14 climbing but anyone who climbs in the Wichitas with regularity knows exactly how hard such a climb can be - then again, maybe you don't. So here's a chance to see a great climber on a great route. Russell's ascent is encouragement to never give up on those projects. Enjoy.