Heckmair Route | Eiger 3970m North Face | 1700m 21h | ED, V, M6, A0, AI5 скачать в хорошем качестве

Heckmair Route | Eiger 3970m North Face | 1700m 21h | ED, V, M6, A0, AI5

Early winter ascent (11. - 12. 11. 2025) of the historic Heckmair route in Eiger North Face. The conditions weren't the best, but the crux pitches were generally quite ok, having enough ice. We tried to free climb (drytool) the Hinterstoisser traverse, but failed as there wasn't enough ice on the smooth rock at the end of the traverse. All the other pitches went free without aiding, although I aided one more pitch above the Waterfall Chimney as I missed the easiest passage slightly and had to correct, loosing energy and eventually just A0 aiding through to save time. We climbed for 9h the first day - 11.11., then slept on the Karl-Max Bivy and climbed for 12h the second day, reaching the top of Eiger at 18:10 on 12.11. We then searched for a good bivy spot on the descent via the west face, which was strenuous work, as there wasn't much snow and downclimbing on the lose slabs was uncomfortable at best. We eventually reached the glacier where we dug out a nice shelf in the snow and slept till the morning. On 13.11. we descended to the valley.