Renovating? What the builders won't tell you скачать в хорошем качестве

Renovating? What the builders won't tell you

Builders rarely talk about ventilation and that’s becoming a real problem. Miss out ventilation &and you’ll have big problems. To buy Beginners Guide to Eco Renovation: https://amzn.to/3XHhnZc We retrofitted our Victorian terrace & now saving 75% of energy usage. Not to mention helping reduce the 20% of global emissions from leaky homes. I talk everything retrofit in plain English so you can have a good conversation with the builder & find information when you need it. Builders are just not used to thinking about ventilation. Also building regulations states that trickle vents are sufficient. Trickle vents sit at the top of your window & let in fresh air. They're permanently open or in newer windows open or closed. If you want a truly energy efficient home then you need to address three areas: insulation, airtightness and ventilation. The last two go together. Airtightness takes out all the uncontrolled air by wrapping the house in an airtight breathable membrane. This forms the Thermal Envelope - the structure that separates the air inside your house from the air outside. We lived in our Victorian house for years with what felt like a minimal thermal envelope. There have been times when it was warmer outside than inside. I also know of people who live in new builds that would doubt the presence of a thermal envelope. When you get airtightness right, you stop all the uncontrolled air – from leaky windows and doors, gaps in the masonry, from under floors and through the roof. But - when you get it right - you’ll create a pretty sweaty, steamy thermal envelope. A family produces about 20 litres of moisture a day– that’s 35 pints. In a leaky house that’s no problem. There is so much air movement between inside and outside that the moisture is quickly dealt with. But imagine 35 pints floating around in an airtight thermal envelope – that's big problems. Trickle vents will help a bit if you always have them open. But since they also let in a draught often they are closed. So you have to find a way to balance your level of airtightness with equivalent ventilation. The measure you need is the air change rate ACH The air change rate is the number of times the total air volume in a room or space is completely removed and replaced in an hour. Building regulations calls for ACH of 1. So a complete change of air once an hour. The other bit of jargon you need is Purge Ventilation. This just refers to the times when you need a quick boost in air movement. The options are open the window, increase the speed of the hob extractor or boost the ventilation system. SO why not just open a window? This is definitely an option. As long as your windows open fully this will work. The challenge is remembering to do it on a regular basis and being determined when it’s freezing cold outside & you don’t want to lose all the heat. The options are: Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR) - this is a whole house system that sits in your loft with vents into each room. It provides fresh filtered air into a building and holds the heat. . The downside is it takes a lot of room so not easy to retrofit. If you’re in an old house with no spaces you can install single room heat recovery ventilation units (SRHR). These are the next best thing to a full MVHR. They work individually and many will link up with an app. You set the humidity level to what you want. These units are also heat recovery. You can also add CO2 sensors and upgrade the filters so they deal with more of the common indoor pollutants, including pollen, mould spores, fungi, bacteria, and viruses Both have filters that need cleaning at regular intervals. There are a number of different manufacturers. We have Blauberg single room heat recovery units in each room. https://www.blauberg.co.uk/domestic/d... We also have one Envirovent – which is now installed here behind me in the Barn.https://www.envirovent.com/products/h... I’d suggest you search heat recovery ventilation and see what options you come up with. And if you have questions, try the manufacturers tech people. I've found them very helpful Final option is a PIV system – positive input ventilation. This is a push system. It depends on trickle vents and draughts so it won’t work with airtightness. It can make the house cold so easy to switch off Lots of options, just be sure you choose one – without it you’ll get condensation &o mould with all the health issues that brings. Any questions let me know. And tell me how you’re getting on do i need ventilation, what ventilation do I need, what is a ventilation system, why condensation occurs, how to get rid of condensation