etrailer | 2017 Honda Civic Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver: Complete Installation скачать в хорошем качестве

etrailer | 2017 Honda Civic Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver: Complete Installation

Click for more info and reviews of this CURT Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Check out some similar Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Click for more info and reviews of this CURT Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Check out some similar Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Click for more info and reviews of this CURT Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Check out some similar Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Click for more info and reviews of this CURT Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Check out some similar Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Search for other popular Honda Civic parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2017... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe!    / etrailertv   Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t... Today on our 2017 Honda Civic Sedan, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Curt Class I Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C11604. So here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. It's going to be right underneath the bumper, and you're going to see the nice, round tube crossbar going across the bottom of the car. Now, this is going to give you a 1-1/4" by 1-1/4" receiver tube opening, and it has that nice, flush reinforced collar around the receiver tube, and just giving it a nice, finished look. Now, this hitch is going to use a standard 1/2" pin and clip, which is included, so you're not going to have to go out and buy one. Now, as far as the safety chain loops, there's going to be a plate welded on the bottom, and you're still going to have plenty of room to get any of your hooks on or off. Now, this hitch has a 200-pound max tongue weight, which is going to be the force pushing down, and it also has a 2,000-pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the force it can pull. Now, you do want to check with your vehicle's owner's manual to make sure that your vehicle can handle that. Now, the manufacturer does recommend, when towing non-trailer loads, that you do use a stabilization strap, which you can find on our website using part number 18050. Now I'm going to give you a few measurements that should help you when deciding on accessories such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is 5". From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube is 11". Now that we've gone over some features, let's go and show you how we get it installed. To begin our installation, we're going to need to pick up our hitch and put it in place, and we're going to be placing it right on the frame rail. Right on either side of the exhaust here, we're going to be placing our hitch here and marking our holes where we're going to need to drill. Now with an extra set of hands, we can get our hitch in place. All right, with our hitch in position, I'm just going to rest it against these bolts to help me. I'm just going to mark out our holes, and we're going to do the same thing on the other side. Okay, now we can lower our hitch back down and set it aside while we get ready to drill our holes. Now with everything marked, I'm going to be using a 1/4" drill bit, and I'm going to make those holes first, and then we're going to come back with a 1/2" drill bit. And we're going to repeat the same process on the other side. With our two holes that we just drilled on each side, if you come to the forward-most hole, this is going to be our access hole. So since our hardware's not going to fit through there, we're going to have to enlarge this hole, and you can use a step drill bit, a file, a die grinder, or whatever you have available to make the hole big enough to fit our spacer blocks. I'm going to be using a step drill, and I'm going to make it just big enough to get our hardware in. Now you can see that our spacer block fits right inside of our access hole. Now we're going to do the same process on the other side. So I'm going to take my pull wire and I'm going to put it in the furthest rear hole, and I'm going to be wanting it to come out here, in my access hole. Now, this may take a little bit of patience, and I do want to remind you, we did finish drilling the access hole, so there will be some sharp edges. A little trick is once you get it in there and you can find it with your finger, you get a pair of needle-nose pliers, should be able to reach in and grab it, and we're just going to want our wire to come out right here. Okay, now with our pull wire here, we're going to take our spacer block, and we're going to feed it over and through our pull wire, and then we're going to take our bolt and we're going to thread