etrailer | Installation Guide for the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2023 Toyota RAV4 скачать в хорошем качестве

etrailer | Installation Guide for the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2023 Toyota RAV4

Click for more info and reviews of this CURT Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Check out some similar Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Search for other popular Toyota RAV4 parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2023... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe!    / etrailertv   Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-c... Hi, Don with etrailer. Today we're gonna be taking a look at and installing the Curt Class II receiver hitch. It's going on our 2023 Toyota RAV4. Let's come on down and take a look and see how this Curt fits on our Toyota here. This is a Class II hitch. It's gonna be an inch and a quarter by inch and a quarter receiver opening. This is industry standard for a class II hitch. It's gonna have a gloss powder coat black finish. It's gonna have a wire type chain hanger here that's gonna accept either your classic S hook style for your safety chains, or a heavier duty clevis type. Now one of the things I like about this hitch is the hidden cross tube up here. It fits the Toyota nice. All you really see is just the receiver opening here. Now the Class II is not my first choice. It's gonna be a lighter duty hitch that's gonna be designed more for maybe a two bike rack carrier, or a lighter duty cargo carrier on the back. Now speaking of accessories, if you're in the market for bike racks and cargo carriers, they're gonna come with usually a pin to tie these in here, and it'll be an anti-rattle pin that tightens everything up nicely. Now if you're towing a light duty trailer you're going to need a pin and clip. Now these are sold separately. We have them here at etrailer. Now speaking of towing, let's talk about some capacities for this hitch. We have 350 pound tongue weight rating. Now that's gonna be the pressure that's gonna be pushing down on your hitch, and 3,500, that's gonna be the total of your trailer weight and the cargo that's on it combined. Now go ahead and check with your Toyota's owner manual to make sure that you can haul that much weight. Let's get some measurements on this hitch. There's a couple of measurements that I like to do, and it's from the ground to the top inner collar on the receiver hitch here. We're looking at a height of about 11 1/8 inches, and then from the center of the pinhole here out to the edge of the fascia is four inches. Now these measurements are important when you're choosing either a ball mount for towing, or if you're choosing cargo carriers or bike racks that fold up. You don't want them to impact the bumper. So final thoughts on this Curt Class II hitch. Look, it's not my first choice just because it's a lighter duty hitch. If you go with a larger class III hitch that has a two-inch opening, there's a lot more accessories that are available more trailering options. However, if you already have class I equipment at home, like a cargo rack or a bike rack that's already class I, this is a great hitch. As far as installation goes, it's not that bad at all. There's some tight spots on the passenger side, and we needed some ratchet wrenches and maybe a special tool, but we're gonna go ahead and shoot it to the install. Stick around, you can see how it's done. Okay, so let's get this install started. Now, first thing we're gonna do, it's not stated in the instruction manual, but when we we're trying to test fit this hitch earlier, it was just kind of tight to get it in between the exhaust with these tips, and we don't wanna scratch stuff up. This exhaust is really easy to lower down, and that's what we're gonna do right now. I've got a cam-buckle tie down strap right here, and I just hung it from the coil springs on either side, and that's gonna help us control the exhaust as we lower it. Now we're gonna go ahead, and got a pry bar here. I'm gonna loosen this exhaust right here first. You can just take a pry bar, go in, give it a twist and push, and if you've got some silicone spray, that'll help it come off easy too. On either frame rail, the passenger and the driver's side, we've got two 12 millimeter bolts. I'll just go ahead and zip these off. (drill whirs) (drill whirs) There and that should give us enough room. Now we're over here on the driver's side. You're gonna have two stickers on either side of the car here. These are gonna be covering the weld nuts underneath. This just keeps the dirt and the grime out. I've got a scraper here. We can just use a screwdriver. I kind of just poke the middle and peel it off. It's a sticker, so do whatever you gotta do. Now, even though they had stickers over these holes and the weld nuts here, it's still a good idea to use a bottle brush and just go ahead and clean that out. You can still have manufacturing debris in there that would make it difficult to bolt the hi