Building an Energy Efficient Year Round Greenhouse скачать в хорошем качестве

Building an Energy Efficient Year Round Greenhouse

https://ceresgs.com/?utm_source=youtu...   / ceresgreenhouse     / ceresgreenhouse   https://www.pinterest.com./ceresgreenhouse/ We design and build strong durable greenhouses for year-round growing that don’t rely on fossil fuel heating and cooling. We handle the poured concrete base. There are a couple of different options in the foundation. This one right now has a full foundation wall underground that goes 36 inches and then it has a concrete slab in between those in order to make it sort of clean and easy to wash. Some people have a natural interior. These are 2x4 steel and two by two and one and a half by one and a half. These are designed to be able to lift easily so that people with some construction experience will be able to build this themselves. It's a great kit for DIY builders with a little bit of experience or a contractor of your choice. The first thing that we do is go through the packing list and make sure that everything that was supposed to show up showed up. The next step is to lay out your walls on the slab or on the foundation wall. It's always a good idea to place your materials when they arrive close to the build site and it's also nice to not stack the pallets because it's much easier to access them if they're laid out individually instead of on top of each other. Generally, the frame arrives first, and then sometime later, maybe a week to a couple weeks the insulated metal panels and the glazing that will show up a little later and that's the skin around this steel frame. Once you've unpacked your materials you lay out the base place pieces where they belong according to your specific plans at which point you begin by hammer drilling and anchor bolting through the pre-drilled holes in the base frame at one side of the wall into the concrete. As you roll that wall out make sure your columns are perfectly spaced before you put your holes in the concrete to ensure perfect column space. And these are scalable so the structure for the 30 by 30s are exactly the same as a structure for that 30 x 120s so once you get one wall, you can just put it all the way through to the end of your greenhouse at whatever length that you want. We just built our first truss on the ground, got it up and placed it on the columns. We're now plumbing up all of our west wall columns and cashing them to the end wall to end the truss. Once that's all set we'll start rolling the trusses out day by day. So far on this particular project we've got all of the nine trusses up and then we also have the two end walls up and today we're going to put up the purlins and girts. Now girts are structural elements that fit into the side walls that we’ll put the exterior panels on to. And that stiffens the structure to increase the snow load and shear wind load for your particular location. The purlins are the ones that go on the roof they stack all the way up the roofing structure and again we attach the roof the polycarbonate to the purlins and then on the end walls you can have the option of full insulated metal panels which we attach onto the girts as well and then I wanted to show one other thing because we'll do this depending on your structure you're going to have an entry door on one side and you'll have an 8 by 8 overhead door and an entry door on the other side. And this is what we call a header for the door. This attaches resistance with an L bracket attached slightly above the door height so that you can fit the jam inside the particular header. Today we're installing our prefabricated insulated wall panels on the north side. These help to reflect light that hits the back wall and create a super-insulated and energy-efficient structure. Greenhouses are designed to grow year-round even in a harsh climate. Our kits come with hail-resistant, well-insulated triple wall polycarbonate providing a very high light transmission. Polycarbonate goes on with a triple-layer aluminum track system. The bottom track goes on first as a couple along with black rubber gaskets on the top channel there’s matching long black rubber gaskets. And when you screw the top channel into the bottom channel it just squeezes gently on the polycarbonate and compresses those gaskets which keep all the water from getting inside that gasket into the greenhouse.