У нас вы можете посмотреть бесплатно Basics of Lacing Spokes of a Motocross Dirtbike Rear Wheel Yamaha YZ125 YZ250 YZ250F YZ450F WR250 + или скачать в максимальном доступном качестве, видео которое было загружено на ютуб. Для загрузки выберите вариант из формы ниже:
Если кнопки скачивания не
загрузились
НАЖМИТЕ ЗДЕСЬ или обновите страницу
Если возникают проблемы со скачиванием видео, пожалуйста напишите в поддержку по адресу внизу
страницы.
Спасибо за использование сервиса ClipSaver.ru
Here is a photo album that might help https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?v... This is a basic video on how to know which spokes go where on your rear wheel. This example is a 1999 and newer Yamaha YZ/YZF/WR rear wheel. But the procedure is similar for many other years, makes & models. When determining which spokes go where on the rim - just look at the length of said spoke, and as it comes from the hub to the rim - the nipple-end of the spoke should come through the rim just far enough to be threaded by the nipple. If the end of the spoke is sticking way far through - you are obviously trying to install that spoke in the wrong hole of the rim. If he the spoke cannot reach the hole of the rim - the same is true... So, use some common sense as far as that part. The spokes on the left side of the hub use the holes on the left side of the rim. The spokes on the right side of the hub use the holes on the right side of the rim. But as far as the crossing pattern - see this video for more info. NOTE: The "inside" spoke will cross UNDER its corresponding "outside" spoke. (of course) We will not actually true the wheel here - because - that part is actually the easiest part of wheel-building. But basically stated: Prior to initial lacing - make sure your spokes' threads are clean and lightly lubed, then after basic lacing is complete, screw each nipple down about 50% of the threads. I like to use a flat-blade screwdriver bit on my drill to speed up this first process. Make sure all are tightened exactly the same to start (50%). Then start tightening each nipple about 1/2 turn on the right side of the rim - then repeat for the left side of the rim. And then repeat - and repeat, etc. As spokes get tighter - lessen the number of turns per nipple to 1/4 turn. Work slowly and evenly for each spoke. The wheel should stay true as you evenly tighten each spoke (if you started them all at 50% threads). Even number of turns (or partial turns) as you work your way around the right side of the rim - then repeat for the left side of the rim. Much of the basic lacing info is repeated often in this video. There are plenty of other videos out there to finish the truing part. But, honestly, that is the easiest part of all of this. And always refer to your Service Manual for the proper torque specification for the spokes. Do not over-tighten. You will likely break the spokes if you do so. Spokes should not be so tight that you cannot turn the nipple any more. Just make them nice and strong - but not too much. You should photograph (or video) your wheel and spokes and nipples while your wheel is still assembled. This will make life easier for you upon reassembly and lacing. If your spokes and nipples are badly corroded, worn, or rusted - you should likely just replace them. You are asking for more trouble than you need if you try to reassemble badly worn or corroded spokes. See our other links for lots more stuff! / rdavidharris / videos / photos / photos_albums / videos_by https://stores.ebay.com/horsepower-house https://amazon.com/shops/horsepower-h... YouTube Channel # 2 / horsepowerhouse20