Hydraulic front suspension - 64 Toyota Stout Build скачать в хорошем качестве

Hydraulic front suspension - 64 Toyota Stout Build

Brakes Firstly I adapt 90s hilux spindles and disk brake assembly to the stout control arms. Firstly I tried swapping them from right to left to position the steering link at the rear but because the stout arms are angled backwards, the calliper lacked clearance to the spring cup at lock. I then swapped them back around and made a spacer adapter to flip the steering mount to the back side. The spacer also helped correct the Ackerman line - pointing it close to the diff. The underside was reamed to suit a larger tie rod end. The steering rack isn’t set up yet as that can’t be done until after the z-notch. Control arms The stout control arms were initially relief cut to mock up the suspension at full droop. I then decided that using 90s hilux control arms would be a nicer starting point. I explained a bit verbally during this process my mock up process. It involved a lot of trial and error until I achieved the final result. A jig plate was made to set up the arms, this was then flipped to the opposite side of the plate to mirror the subsequent arm. Suspension geometry The reason I used a modified factory arm over tubular is because its a loophole to save money on the expensive engineering testing otherwise required for completely custom arms. I also prefer the factory appearance. I firstly drew up the existing geometry on a notepad using a combination of a laser level and tape measures. The spindle change led to quite an extreme amount of positive camber at ride height, to correct this I positioned the upper control arm mounting face further inbound on the chassis. I also made the UCA longer and dropped the height of the mounting face to help correct ball joint bind as well as give myself enough room for the spring to protrude into that area. I took care to ensure the instant centre remained just above the ground at ride height. I fine tuned the roll centre to point in the middle of the tread of the front wheels at ride height. Ride height is set at half travel (about 160mm) to avoid extreme changed at full bump and droop. This is the height I’ll drive the car on a highway. Spring/Shocks Plan A was to see whether I could run a shock within the spring. The problem was being unable to find a shock short enough that could still run within the suspension travel. If the truck didn't sit so low on 13' wheels this idea could potentially work but I had too many clearance issues. Plan B was what I went with. I raised the spring cup between the control arm to be able to run a variety of different rate springs. I plan to run the front shock in the back of the chassis in the form of a coil over. This will operate on a fluid transfer system to a secondary cylinder in the back that will directly push on a coil over. The heavy spring in the front will be locked out by a bump stop on a bolt in spacer plate. At a show, I'll just unbolt my spacer plate and switch a valve to isolate the secondary cylinder to do silly stuff like chip it and 3 wheel and then easily switch back to a legal ride on coil overs. The engineer (the person who overseas modifications to vehicle before it can be legally registered) is so far on board with the idea. A lot of trial and error is to come to fine tune the setup to ensure that it can pass the swerve and handling tests. Plan C is to run a shock directly on the control arm is all of this fails.