The MOST UNDERRATED number on the SURF FORECAST - Whats is Wave Period? скачать в хорошем качестве

The MOST UNDERRATED number on the SURF FORECAST - Whats is Wave Period?

For the full version, go to your channel, or browse our socials: www.instagram.com/sandtalk www.tiktok.com/sandtalk Some beachies might prefer peaks, while points and reefs benefit from longer periods. Of course local onshore or offshore winds will also impact on how organised or peaky the surf is. But this is still related to period. . Strong onshore winds will create chop (a secondary swell made of small period waves) that will interact with the long period groundswell (the primary swell shown on the forecast because it holds most of the energy). So understanding the interaction between primary and secondary swell and checking the period of the secondary swell will also help you in getting more off your surf forecast. In the case of chop, the secondary swell affects negatively the primary swell. But what do you think would happen if we had two long period swells (one primary and one secondary) coming in similar directions? Access our Surf Forecast 101 online course at www.sandtalk.com.au/surf-forecast-101 Sand Talk - Science for Waterpeople