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A huge thanks to @TysyTube for generously agreeing to go along with the joke! Go check out TysyTube Restoration’s channel and subscribe! / @tysytube -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is Boston “Champion” pencil sharpener was manufactured somewhere between 1925 and 1957. The C. Howard Hunt Pen Company (today the well-known company Speedball) purchased the Boston Pencil Sharpener Company in 1925. They manufactured the Boston line of pencil sharpeners at their manufacturing facility in Camden, New Jersey, USA until 1957 when they moved to their current home in Statesville, North Carolina, USA. I purchased this for $15 from a local antique store. ______Timestamps ______ 0:00 – Stealing and Overview 0:45 – Disassembly 3:48 – Cleaning Small Metal Parts 7:44 – Cleaning blades 9:08 – Stripping, Cleaning, Priming, Painting Base 11:35 – Brazing attempt 12:20 – Shavings container polishing 13:53 – Reassembly 18:18 – Before/After 18:43 – Testing 19:30 – Thanks for watching! Subscribe! ______Tips for restoring your own Boston Champion Pencil Sharpener______ Please leave a comment if you’re restoring your own pencil sharpener like this and need any advice along the way if anything in my video was unclear! Follow along in the video for disassembly – it’s straight forward! Unfortunately, the shavings container was originally made to never be disassembled (thick metal tabs that are hard to get enough leverage on), so I found it best to keep together. If you have tips for disassembling, please let me know in the comments! Since everything except the handle knob is metal, start with soaking the metal parts in your favorite rust remover (I use Evapo-Rust but you can also use vinegar or electrolysis to name a couple other options). After about a day soaking in rust remover, you can wire wheel everything to clean metal. Do not wire wheel the cutting blades as you might dull them. Just brush them clean with a nylon bristle brush. They should still be sharp as long as the only thing they sharpened over the years was pencils! If they are dull you can soak them in vinegar for about a day to give them a bit of “bite” back. The amount of sanding and polishing of the metal parts is up to you, but general progression for me to get a mirror finish where I want to is 60 grit-100-150-220-500-1000-1200 and finishing with white or blue polish compound. For rust protection I recommend nickel plating all metal parts. There are many great tutorials out there for nickel plating safely at home. For the wood knob I sanded at 220 and 400 grit, stained it with a Varathane stain, and then sealed with clear polyurethane. The most difficult part of this restoration is the pencil gripper mechanism. Like the shavings case, it’s not meant to be disassembled. I’d recommend leaving it in one piece and just oiling it well, unless the mechanism is completely broken. For paint, I chose Rustoleum’s hammered paint in light blue – this is both close to the original color and texture and also and extremely durable paint with excellent adhesion for tools. You can choose to prime all your parts or just paint directly onto the parts. I recommend stripping the parts down to bare castings for maximum adhesion and durability, but you should at least sand painted surfaces with ~220 grit sandpaper if you don’t plan to strip it down. I use Rustoleum’s metal etching primer followed by one very heavy coat of the Hammered paint. The hammered texture effect shows up best this way. ______ Social Media ______ Instagram: @catalyst_restorations MERCH SHOP: https://my-store-cae4fb.creator-sprin... #restoration #Boston #pencilsharpener