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Weekend in Genova

Likes its windows, in painted trompe l’oeil or wide open to the world, the birthplace of Niccolò Paganini and Christopher Columbus remains a city of artists and sailors, nostalgic for the era when it dominated the high seas. The best way to see Genoa, a “vertical city” of nearly 600,000 inhabitants, wedged between mountains that encircle the shorefront like an amphitheatre, for the first time is to arrive by boat. In the foreground lies the port whose Lego-like containers are piled high around a forest of factories, silos and cranes; the background is made up of colourful houses clinging to the countryside strewn in haphazard heaps as if by a child playing with building blocks.