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My new book - The Green-Wood Carver: Slow Woodcraft For Beginners is available to order now! Hello all! I am back with another Calm Carving episode and this time, I carve a bulbous pouring vessel from some incredible black walnut. The walnut was sustainably storm felled from a local park, a few kilometres from there I live and is the perfect canvas for honing in on these techniques. This particular pouring vessel is the first 'final' from a design and concept period that I have been working towards and I am really happy with the shape. I made a few playful prototypes before getting to this final and I plucked elements that I liked from them to condense into this piece. I am looking forward to making more of these and producing a batch of them for a project that I will tell you more about in the future. The pieces will be 80ml, perfect for their intended use, but it means that I will have to make sure that each one is to size each time. I started with a pre-split and righted out blank that I flattened slightly with my axe before clamping it into a cup horse and producing a rough hollow with an adze before using a double edge twca cam (40mm) to carve into the adzed surface and sculpt an undercut inner form. I then test the size of the measure using a technique that I picked up in the past, involving rice! I filled a measuring jug to 80ml with rice and then use this as a rough guide to test the size of the hollow by simply pouring it in. It takes a little trial and error and you can see in this video, in the first attempt, I was shy of about 15ml so I had to jump back into the hollowing. The second test was perfect, you can see that the measure sat in the hollow with a little space remaining. This extra space is vital for the outcome as I need some bias to account for shrinkage of the fresh, green wood. It wont be a lot, but it's needed. Once dry, I will then fill the piece with 80ml of water and mark off where it meets the inner wall and carve into it, a small notch so that this can be met each time by its user. Once happily and precisely hollowed, I then roughed the outer walls to meet the hollow at an even thickness with the axe, before refining the surface with the knife. I started from the base, creating a round foot, before working around the base. Next, I carved the top lip before refining the middle. Working in this three-part step by step is important for me to create an even thickness throughout the whole vessel. Not only is the evenness important aesthetically, but it also makes the overall shape structurally sound, with no weaker, or stronger points and makes it less prone to cracking. I then used a mini spoon knife from Nic Westermann to hollow out the spout and create a channel for the water to flow from the hollow. This part is deceptively simple... The grain is straight in this section of the shape so it is fairly easy and intuitive to gouge out this valley. Finally, I refine the spout and create a smooth relationship from bulb to lip using a detail knife before creating a chamfered edge and harsh cut-off at the end of the spout. It is this cut off that is crucial for a clean pour. If the cut-off is rounded, it is likely that the piece will either not pour nicely, or it will drip a lot. I am happy that I managed to accomplish this project and record it before that big snow storm rolled in! Once the pieces are fully complete, I will then seal them with a lacquer using urushi techniques so that the pieces will be water tight for their function. Overall, I am happy with this outcome and I am feeling confident in working in batch production mode and creating a range of different (but the same) pouring vessels. I am excited to see them all together at the end of this body of work. Despite the pieces reflecting my personal carving and shape style, it was refreshing to have a little play with shapes and plant myself into a designing process. I hope that you have enjoyed watching this video! Thank you so much for your support and encouragement. If you do have any questions regarding this project, please do pop them below and I will try and answer when I can. Tools used: Axe - Svante Djarv: 0.75g Carving Axe Adze - Josh Burrell: 35mm Radii Cup Adze Hollowing Tool - Nic Westermann - 40mm Double Edge Twca Cam (prototype) Knife - Hewn and Hone: Turning Slöjd Knife - Self Handled Detail Knife - Dave Cockcroft (Dave The Bodger) Detail Slöjd Knife Small Spoon Knife - Nic Westermann - Micro Spoon Blade Saws - Silky: Super Access 21 & Gomboy 240 Chapters: 00:13 Initial Axe Prep 00:52 Initial Hollowing with Adze 01:22 Rough Hollowing with Twca Cam and Rice Measure Test 02:54 Lip Tidy and Refined Hollowing 04:36 Axe and Saw Sculpting 09:08 Knife Work 11:49 Spout Refinement And Knife Finishing Cuts 15:10 The Finished Product and Pouring Test 16:02 Project Debrief - Thank you