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Name recognition and reorientation to the handler from the environment. Make sure that the environment is not so challenging that your pup is failing (unable to offer their skills or even take food). Why a "naked" pup can be a safe pup around the home. Safety and wearing equipment in the home or in a crate or similar set up. Why practicing take it and drop it skills with things he's allowed to play with to master letting go of things, so that letting go of things they shouldn't have is just as easy. Why understanding where your pup is in their development is so important to set them up for success and therefore remain in the home. Positive interrupter and its many uses/benefits (much better option, then startling/scolding/scaring your pup). When you see the "guilty look" that's actually appeasement behaviors or fear responses to show how benign they are and they are worried we may hurt them. Find its with positive interrupter for practice of the skill. Loading a cue, marker or whistle to create value in that thing. Take it and drop it/out/give cues. Creating a great outlet that is dog centric to give your puppy a wonderful way to use their dog behaviors in the appropriate option. You may also rotate through two or more toys to have then practice letting go and grabbing back onto the toy. Your toys could also now build new skills or be used a reinforcement for existing skills. Find its with recall practice and the importance of helping your pup generalize skills to make them more reliable in a real world setting for later. Try using open areas to practice and help generalize skills/behaviors/cues. Everything is connected, like a spider's web and things/experiences will flow from one are to another and will at times either help or hinder you pup's development and reliability. Remember that negative associations are much harder to change than building positive experience first. Trauma stays at times and would require a lot of work on our art to try and help the dog through the behavioral "trouble" it can create.