BMW R Nine T Brake Fluid Change скачать в хорошем качестве

BMW R Nine T Brake Fluid Change

In this video, I'm going to show you how to change the fluid in your brakes, made even easier than back then with the help of a special part from Speed Bleeder. The motorcycle used in this video is a 2017 BMW R nine T Scrambler and steps taken in this maintenance video is also relevant to the 2014 to 2018 variant models - The Classic, Pure, Racer, and Urban G/S. Part of the 24,000 mile service or performed every two years. Our bikes are equipped with front and rear hydraulic brakes, and every two years, the fluid that provides the pressure to activate the brakes needs to be changed. Over time the brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, which lowers its boiling point, making it unsafe and can lead to corrosion within the brake system.  I'll be swapping out my stock brake bleeding nipples for special aftermarket brake bleeders called Speed Bleeders. This is not a sponsored video by the way, and I'm trying these out for the first time. So in this video, you'll have to use the Speed Bleeders to do this correctly. I won't be doing the fluid change the old way with loosening and tightening the bleeder or using a vacuum. The speed bleeders have a built-in one way valve that allows the fluid to flow out, while preventing air from entering the brake system. That allows this to be a simpler one person procedure. Let's get into it. Parts: For both front calipers - SB8125L SS (or BS8125L) Rear caliper - SB6100 SS (or SB6100) Please note that at the time of making this video, the Speed Bleeder website had the incorrect part #s listed for the BMW R Nine T front calipers. The one's I've listed are the correct ones in case they have not yet revised their website. https://speedbleeder.com/bikechart.htm Here are the tools you'll need: -T20 & T30 Torx -5/16" open end wrench -Dot 4 Brake Fluid -3/8" Outside Diameter 1/4" Inside Diameter Tubing -And any kind of container Start by putting your bike on the side stand. But turn your bars to the right. We're trying to get the fluid reservoir to be as level as possible. Get your T30 torx and locate the two bolts that secure the brake lever to the bars. Loosen the bolts until you can rotate the lever on the bars and make the reservoir as level as you can. Just eyeball it, and secure the lever in place. Now get your wrench because we're going to come down to the front brakes to swap out the stock bleeder nipple for the speed bleeder. Have the new speed bleeder ready along with some paper towels because the fluid is going to start flowing out. Sorry about the angle here as I loosen and remove the stock nipple then immediately swap in the speed bleeder. Tighten that down snug for now. Once the bleeder is secure, take one end of the tubing and press it onto the bleeder nipple. And the other end of the tubing should drain into your container. Come back up top and wrap some paper towel around the fluid reservoir, which now should be level. Brake fluid is corrosive so you want to protect your bike if any accidentally spills. I'm securing it with a rubber band. Use your T20 torx and remove the fluid reservoir cap by removing the three bolts holding it on.  Carefully remove the cap and set it aside, being careful not to let it drip on your paint. Loosen the bleeder nipple just up to point where fluid starts to come out. Then have your brake fluid ready. You're going to squeeze the brake lever which pushes the fluid out, and simultaneously filling the reservoir with fresh brake fluid. It's really important that you not allow the fluid level to drop so low that air starts to get sucked into your brake line. Always keep some fluid in the reservoir. And you'll keep this up until the fluid coming out of the caliper is as clear as the fluid you are putting into the reservoir. Once you're satisfied, come back down and tighten the bleeder nipple. And carefully withdraw the tubing from the nipple. Remember that brake fluid is corrosive so clean it up really well. Then move on over to the other side and do the same thing. Swap the bleeder nipple out, squeeze, fill, etcetera. Retighten the nipple. Now you can top off the fluid in the front reservoir and put the cap back on. Then it's the same procedure at the rear, except there's only one caliper. Swap out the bleeder nipple, remove the cap from the rear fluid reservoir, pump the brakes, and fill. And if your brakes feel spongy or a bit soft after doing this, then that means some air got into the system. To get rid of the air, apply some pressure to the levers and leave it for a few hours or overnight. Pressurizing the brake lines will force any air to consolidate into a larger bubble and come to the surface. And that's basically it. I highly recommend giving the bike a good wash around the reservoirs at least to make sure there isn't any brake fluid sitting around on the paint finishes.