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DIY 2017 Ford Explorer Installation for the etrailer Trailer Hitch Receiver скачать в хорошем качестве

DIY 2017 Ford Explorer Installation for the etrailer Trailer Hitch Receiver 7 лет назад

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DIY 2017 Ford Explorer Installation for the etrailer Trailer Hitch Receiver
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DIY 2017 Ford Explorer Installation for the etrailer Trailer Hitch Receiver

Click for more info and reviews of this etrailer Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Check out some similar Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Search for other popular Ford Explorer parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2017... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe!    / etrailertv   Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t... Today on our 2017 Ford Explorer we're going to be installing etrailer.com's Class 3 2" Trailer Hitch receiver, part number E98867.This is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. As you can see the cross tube is going to be visible towards the center here. But for the most part it's going to be tucked back pretty far and well hidden. It's a Class 3 2" by 2" hitch receiver. So it's going to be great for all of your towing needs from bike racks to cargo carriers to trailers. It uses a 5/8" hitch pin and clip and you can pick one up here at etrailer.com.Features plate style safety chain loops, they don't have the largest opening but they should accommodate most safety chains. It features a 400 pound tongue weight, that's force going down on top of the receiver, and a 4,000 pound gross towing capacity, that's how much it can pull behind it. When using a weight distribution system the tongue weights going to increase to 500 pounds, and the gross towing capacities going to increase to 5,000 pounds. You do want to verify in your vehicle's owners manual that you don't exceed any of its towing capacities.Now to help you when deciding on accessories I've got some measurements for you. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube it measures about 15-3/4". This is important in determining if you need a drop-rise, or a raised shank in any of your accessories. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper it measures about 5-1/2". This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper.We'll begin our instillation underneath the vehicle. We're going to need to lower the exhaust. So we're going to install a strap. Just hang it here underneath the exhaust. This is going to ensure we don't drop the exhaust down too low and cause any damage to it. Put that on there, we'll just kind of snug it up that way it'll catch it for us. We'll now spray our rubber hangers and pry those off on each side. There's also one in the center further towards the front of the vehicle.We'll now remove our exhaust hangers using an 18 millimeter socket. We'll set that aside. We're not going to be reinstalling the hanger but we are going to need the rubber portion of it. On the driver's side our hanger as a tow hook so we're going to be taking this whole assembly off as well. There are three bolts that holds this one on. There's two on the bottom like the other side, but an additional one on the side. Side one also is an 18 millimeter socket.We'll now take our fish wire, slide the spacer on it and then thread on our carriage bolt. We're going to slide the carriage bolt up through the frame here on our passenger side. Push the spacer in behind it. Then we pull those back down.We'll now lift our hitch into position. Need to go up over your exhaust. Take your fish wire, slide it down through the circular hole on the passenger side. We'll then take the medium sized bolts that come in our kit. Slide a conical tooth washer on it, put the teeth facing up toward the hitch. Thread that into the holes. Once you get one on each side the hitch will hold itself up making it easier to install the rest of your hardware.Now we can install the rest of our bolts. You'll have two bolts just like the ones we installed that are going to go into the weld nuts in the frame. You'll have one flange bolt that will thread onto your carriage bolt that you fish wired down. We'll now install our exhaust brackets onto our hitch. You'll want to remove the rubber from both the muffler and the brackets. We'll take the longer bolts that come in the kit, slide a flat washer on it. We're going to slide that through out rubber isolator. We'll then slide that through the opening here on our hitch and on the other side we'll place a flat washer followed by a lock nut. We're going to do this on both sides. Now we'll tighten them up with a 16 millimeter socket and wrench. We just want it to be secure. So, we want to have that little bit of play there so we can move it around. The locking nut will keep it from coming undone. We'll do that on the other side as well.Now we'll tighten down the rest of our hardware using a 19 millimeter socket. Now torque your hardware to the specifications found in your instructions. We can now reinstall our exhaust, just lift it into position and slide it through the hangers that we att

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