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If you’ve ever snapped off on a fish and blamed your knot, your line, or your reel, there’s a good chance the real problem was your drag. In this video, I break down how to set drag properly on a fishing reel and, more importantly, why drag actually exists. Drag is not there to stop the fish. It’s there to protect your line, your knot, and your rod when a fish surges or changes direction. A lot of reels today are marketed with huge drag numbers — 20, 25, even 30 pounds of drag. But max drag ratings are not the same thing as usable fishing drag. I explain why smooth, consistent drag matters far more than big numbers on a box, and why real-world fishing history proves it. We also cover something most anglers never account for: rod angle. Once the line runs through the guides and the rod is loaded at about a 45-degree angle, the effective drag at the fish increases by roughly 40–50%. That means a drag that feels light at the reel can be much heavier once everything is working together. You’ll learn: • What fishing reel drag actually does • Common drag mistakes that cause line break-offs • Why high drag ratings are mostly marketing • How rod angle increases effective fishing drag • The simple 15–20% rule for setting reel drag • How to set fishing reel drag without a scale • How drag settings change with braid, mono, and fluorocarbon line This is a fundamentals-first breakdown designed to help you lose fewer fish and stop fighting your gear. 0:00 Why You’re Breaking Off Fish 0:25 What Drag Actually Does 1:03 Common Drag Mistakes 1:38 Why Max Drag Numbers Don’t Matter 2:28 Real-World Drag Example (Ambassadeur 6500) 3:12 How Rod Angle Increases Drag 4:01 The 15–20% Drag Rule 4:32 Adjusting Drag for Line & Fish 5:02 How to Set Drag Without a Scale 5:35 What 2 lbs of Drag Really Feels Like 6:02 Rod Angle vs Reel Drag Demonstration 7:21 Adjusting Drag for Conditions 7:50 Drag Settings for Braid, Mono & Fluoro 8:50 Final Reality Check 9:14 Final Thoughts