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UK: RESTAURATEURS CAMPAIGN FOR BOMBAY DUCK

(20 Nov 1998) English/Nat British restaurant owners are demanding the return of Bombay Duck - an Indian delicacy effectively banned by the European Commission. The dried fish is usually battered and fried, but curry lovers have been all but deprived of its pungent taste since new E-C regulations took effect 15 months ago. Now prominent London restaurant chefs are taking up the fight, hoping for the return of one of India's designer dishes to British dining tables. Connoisseurs recognise Bombay Duck as an Indian delicacy - a lizard fish normally found swimming in the Ganges Delta and the Arabian Sea. Up until recently, its fragrant cooking odours wafted through many of Britain's 8-thousand Indian restaurants. That was until the European Commission slapped a ban on Bombay Duck in August 1997. The trouble started when E-C inspectors found salmonella in frozen fish imported from India. Bombay Duck wasn't involved but the E-C temporarily banned Indian fish. Last December, the ban was lifted to allow fish coming from E-C approved freezing or canning establishments. But Bombay Duck is processed by small entrepreneurs. It's a cottage industry which can't afford to meet the new E-C standards, effectively banning trade in Bombay Duck. British supplies of the fish are now drying up. Cyrus Todiwala, head chef at London's Cafe Spice Namaste, is among a growing number of restaurant chefs fighting to have Bombay Duck brought back to British tables. SOUNDBITE: (English) "I mean so many of our regulars just ask for it all the time. People crave it. They say 'Get me a little bit from home. Just get me a teeny, weeny bit,' and I can't do because my wife won't allow me in the first place." SUPER CAPTION: Cyrus Todiwala, Head chef, Cafe Spice Namaste Under normal circumstances, Bombay Duck fish is rendered to a pulp - bones and all. The Maharashtrians dry it in the sun before cooking it. It's most commonly served deep fried, although aficionados prefer it as a pickle, or in a sweet and sour parla sauce, or marinaded in vinegar, shredded and fried to a crisp. But nowadays they're happy to see it at all. SOUNDBITE: (English) "It's banned for no apparent reason. They don't even know why it's banned. They don't even know the product they've banned. That's the problem with it." SUPER CAPTION: Cyrus Todiwala, Head Chef, Cafe Spice Namaste Restaurants like London's Spice Namaste were forced to take Bombay Duck off the menu a year ago as supplies dwindled. This plate came from the chef's personal stock - a special dish for diners visiting Cafe Namaste. And, like most curry lovers, these customers say they're annoyed by the E-C regulations. SOUNDBITE: (English) "Well I think a lot of the European things are a lot of old rubbish anyway. They're overrated and too strict. I've never had a problem with eating it. I used to eat it - it used to smell a lot - it wasn't socially acceptable, but the taste is fine and I don't see why it should be banned." SUPER CAPTION: Vox Pop, Diner Bombay Duck is known as bummalo in southern Asia - a narrow slimy fish that usually grows from six to eight inches long. It's traditionally caught in November and December, and processed between December and March. SOUNDBITE: (English) "It's like a delicacy. It's unique. It might smell like the gents urinals but that's part of the fun of it, you know. It's lovely. It's a lovely dish." SUPER CAPTION: Vox Pop, Diner Like caviar or strong cheese, Bombay Duck has developed a cult following among British devotees. SOUNDBITE: (English) Find out more about AP Archive: http://www.aparchive.com/HowWeWork Twitter:   / ap_archive   Facebook:   / aparchives   ​​ Instagram:   / apnews   You can license this story through AP Archive: http://www.aparchive.com/metadata/you...