Mark Hudon Big Wall clinic 1 - anchor kit скачать в хорошем качестве

Mark Hudon Big Wall clinic 1 - anchor kit

This is a series of videos from big wall climbing clinics presented by expert big wall climber Mark Hudon. See the full description below for a summary of tips covered in each video. The videos cover Mark’s tested techniques on aid climbing tips, big wall anchors, mechanical advantage hauling systems, how to set up your bivy / portaledge, how to pack your haul bag, the best way to connect your haul rope to the haul bag (it’s not with a knot), ascending, cleaning, leading sequence, and more. The videos were taken over different clinics in 2015 and 2016, at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center in Portland OR. www.mazamas.org ============================================ teaching points anchor kit: 3 large lockers, with quick draws on 2 of them. The draws are used to dock your haul bags. Consider having a unusual color for the draw biners, like red. Each partner has an anchor kit. At a 3 bolt horizontal anchor: One biner with a draw goes to the middle bolt. If the pitch comes from the right of the anchor, then the second locker with a draw goes on the left bolt. (Reverse this if pitch approaches the anchor from the left.) You want to haul away from the place your second will be ascending. If the bolt(s) is/are bomber, it’s fine to haul off 1 bolt. Mark likes to equalize the anchor with the lead rope, and does not use a cordelette. At the anchor, pull up about 20 feet or slack, tie a figure 8 on a bight in it, and put this to the bolt farthest away from you. Then, equalize the remainder of the ropes with butterfly knots, and adjust the butterflies to equalize the fixed lead rope for the second to jumar on. Once three primary biners have the lead rope clipped in, they are locked and not opened again.