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The BMW F10 M5 S63TU Engine teardown and rebuild continues, we're now ready to remove the cylinder head (still with the injector stuck). There's a few 'small tasks to complete first, and as always nothing ever goes quite to plan does it! First thing we need to do is lock the engine in the correct position before we remove the inlet and exhaust pulleys, in order to do this we need to remove the belt and pulley for the A/C motor. This is only held on with four bolts, align the marker facing away from the A/C pump and remove the bolts, then crank the engine round 180 degrees and the pulley will release the tension on the belt and allow you to remove it. The pulley is then held in place by a large circlip. Once this is off you can lock the crank at 150 degress before TDC, the timing kit includes the lock ring and pin to complete this. You need to be aware that this is a fourstroke engine so you may have to put another full turn in to get it in the correct position, or you could find yourself 180 degrees out. The way to tell is to check the exhaust cam lobes on Cylinder 8, if it's in thge correct position this lobe will be pointing down, if you're 180 degrees out it will be pointing up ! There's also some cutouts on the intake cam to allow access to the head bolts, these need to face to the outside of the engine. Setting the engine in the correct position was the easy part, locking the cams with my timing kit was not! As with everything else nothing every really seems to go well and this timing kit is no exception. I bought my kit off eBay and it cam from China, it was pretty much the only one I could find and was always going to be a bit of a gamble. As it turns out there manufacturing is slightly off. There's no way on earth that in it's standard form the kit will allow you to slide over both cams and lock them in place. The two locking place are approx 1.5mm too close together and as they're fixed on th eplate you cannot adjust them! So I decided I'd abandon this and rectify the issue for the rebuild. I also couldn't re-compress the tensioner to lock it in place properly to allow for easy removal, so it cam out uncompressed ... after a little fight! Not having the locking plates means you have to manually brace the cams while you remove the timing pulleys. Finally, remove the cylinder head bolts spiralling inwards and persuade the head to let go with a few gentle taps froma rubber mallet. These things are heavy, and iot would have been easier with two people. There's also a couple of connectors that run over the intake pipe and under the head, one to the intake manifold and one to the block. These also made for a bit of fun when removing. Now that the head is off you can clearly see the piston, unfortunately you can also see the damage to the cylinder. And as with everything it's not going to be straightforward. BMW cylinders are Alusil coated and you can't hone them in the normal way, there's a specialist kit for re-applying the coating. At the moment I'm not sure what to do, in truth I feel a bit flat at the moment as the workload just tripled to get this sorted now. If anyone has any advice or comments please let me know in the comments section below. Thanks for watching. Rich #InjectorStuck #Salvage #Copart #Rebuild #BMW #M5 #F10 #DrivewayRepair #ZeroCompression #HoleInPiston #RoughIdle #BMWEngineTeardown #NowWhat Thanks for finding my channel please don't forget to like, subscribe and share. Subscribe: https://www.youtube.com/c/RichsRides/... You can also find me on the other social media platforms for nuggets before YT updates. Intsagram: / richs_rides FaceBook: / richsrides Chapters: 00:00 Intro Music credits: http://www.bensound.com/royalty-free-... "Actionable"