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The 3-button/1-readout Z-Offset menu itself looks so self-explanatory and trivial that it may seem totally unnecessary to devote a 51-minute video to walking you through its use. In fact, the interface itself only makes one brief cameo appearance in this video. The bulk of the content in this video is instead devoted to two main themes: 1.Hoping to help those of us who find that Z Offset varies significantly from print to print, I talk you through a primer/rant on Z Offset; what it represents, on a CR6 (or any other) "nozzle-as-probe" 3D printer, how it is measured by the CR6 bed probing system, and some of the factors that may cause print-to-print variation. 2. I challenge the conventional wisdom that Z Offset should be measured using a sheet of paper. Then I offer a novel appoach by which Z Offset may be best measured, taking advantage of its main sales feature; using the nozzle-as-probe. NOTE: When I filmed this video, the daughterboard LED went out at the same height as where the fan buzzing on the bed stopped. That is NOT always going to be the case. The cessation of the buzzing noise (which my camera microphone was not able to capture) is the key to identifying when the nozzle has lifted off the bed , NOT the led going out, which can also happen before all strain has been removed. Some viewers will likely find these ideas too hard to accept. If that includes you, please take time to document where you believe I have erred. If you are "on the fence" about using the paper method even after watching this video, I offer you these two additional references for your consideration: 1. https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/bl... 2. 3D Printing Myths I used to believe - Maker's Muse ( • 3D Printing Myths I used to believe... ) If you come to believe, as now do I, that the method proposed here is in fact a good way to measure Z Offset on a CR6, please pay-it-forward, and share this discovery with your friends and peers. [UPDATE: Two caveats have been raised, since I first posted this video: 1. The thickness measurement method in the video is flawed - since drawing the zigzag pattern causes thicker ridges where the ends of the lines meet the inner walls, I should have cut one wall off the square before measuring. When I went back & did that, I measured 0.21mm consistently on all of the squares I re-tested. 2. Since the bed detection led likely goes out before all of the strain is removed from the gauge, I can not be certain that this offset calibration method is accurate to within +/- 0.01mm. The offset could still be a tad low, if one used only "led-out" to measure offset. IT IS AN IMPORTANT PART OF THIS METHOD TO USE THE NOISE OF "FAN VIBRATION ON BED" TO IDENTIFY THE ACTUAL POINT AT WHICH Z=0! Timeline: 0:00 Intro 8:00 Title Screen 8:15 Key concepts primer/rant 14:52 A Pushme/Pullyou diving board 19:00 Homing = a Bias Risk 22:13 Z-Offset on a CR6 24:00 A novel way to measure Z-Offset 24:40 Buzzing=Touching 25:20 Does Offset vary? 29:23 One more time... 30:00 Hysteresis variation 30:39 Load a Print Test 33:52 Setup the printer 37:35 Print test pattern 41:45 Skirt lines bonded 43:00 Calipers say... 47:45 Calling method valid 48:43 Wrap-Up 51:00 The End (Whew!)