1 of 3 Repair/fix washing machine stops, doesn’t rinse, spin, worn timer contacts lift arms. скачать в хорошем качестве

1 of 3 Repair/fix washing machine stops, doesn’t rinse, spin, worn timer contacts lift arms.

READ-FOR MORE INFO THAN IN THESE VIDEOS DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional, just handy with mechanical things and sharing what I have discovered, hope it helps. INTRODUCTION: Tips on how to diagnose and repair worn washing machine timer contacts lift arms, worn over the years from the spinning timer cam, and compensate for arc worn contact discs. Common problem from age, which causes intermittent cycle function problems such as the washer not washing, rinsing or spinning or draining, or even powering on, it’s all controlled by the timer cam turning from its little electric motor that usually doesn’t fail. It’s the contact lift arms, that send electricity to the next function at the right time and the contact discs that wear out and fail. I am not a professional, just good at figuring out and fixing mechanical things and didn’t see any videos on this so.. DIAGNOSE FIRST: Washer not functioning properly: First Check possible faulty timer motor if the dial does not advance on its own when the washer knob is on. Put your ear up close to the washer knob and you should be able to hear a ticking like a clock movement, of the timer motor inside. If timer is working: often means the timer motor is turning the cam properly but the functions contacts aren’t making proper contact anymore because the lift arms are worn down and/or a contact disc is badly electric arc burned away so not making good contact anymore. Now even if the timer is not heard, it can be the timer motor is good but that the contact that powers the timer and entire system is not working. To diagnose further, you will need to follow the procedure below, best to remove the timer contacts assembly before using an ohm meter as described below, for easier access and observations. PS: For no spin function: Check your door closed safety switch by bypassing it’s two wires, to rule out a bad lid switch causing no spin. PROCEDURE: After the ohm test below, if you determine the controller is bad, you can either purchase a whole new timer cam control assembly. New they are $100 and up(if still available), or you can try repairing as show: If you attempt repair, realize these are like a fun puzzle and will spend some hours with it but you may be pleased at the results when done. REMOVAL: Unplug your washer before proceeding. My whirlpool top load ‘90’s washer timer knob is removed by pushing in and turning counter clockwise to unscrew. Carefully remove the plastic position indicator ring by prying and wiggling and releasing any clips, all with a screw driver. 2 sheet metal screws to remove with pliers. Now remove the control panel 2 lower corner screws and move back and flip up the control panel. Unplug and remove the timer contacts assembly connector plug. Slide out one leg at a time of the large plastic C shaped cam cover shield. You can view the contacts arms and access their condition and function using an ohm meter. Look for wear on the lift arm tips, and that the tips ride centered over their cam mountains(note any that do not) and burned contact discs. The center contact pins either connects with the top or bottom contact pins, sending its electricity there. So you’ll test putting a probe on a Center contact pin and it’s top or bottom contact pin. Mark with a paint pen those that have continuity. Retest those contacts that aren’t closed, by spinning the knob/cam to close them. Note tne contact on the end-it powers the washer and the timer, it is open/closed by the knob being pushed in/out. If no continuity on any top or bottom pins and you want to repair, you’ll have to take apart the assembly to access the contacts: CONTINUED-fits in the next video description