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This initial set of experiments was to examine how rope fails in real life, rather than ascertain the load involved. The weakening effect of knots and pulling through the bight or over biners seems to be the main cause of failure, rather than a break in a purely linear mode. Thus, it would seem that these factors are likely to cause an issue long before the maximum tensile strength is reached. This video ( • Rope over rope friction demonstration ) proves this by cutting rated mountaineering rope in seconds with a thin cord and friction! Ignore the load cells results as they could be misleading. UPDATE: Based on a couple of tests only, it looks like a double bight might be less damaging as it creates less of a knife edge. So far, it seems to break at around 50% higher load. This could be an anomaly, of course. More tests needed, also using a biner instead of the bight.