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The gutter on this metal awning was the bane of my existence. It was packed full of pine needles and sludge since I bought the house, and I searched high and low for anything online that might offer advice for cleaning it, and never had any luck. Access to the part requiring cleaning was virtually non-existent. I eventually solved the problem of how to clean this gutter, and documented the process while I was at it. It cost me $30 or less in supplies (I'd have saved a third of that or more if I had already owned a bottle of PVC glue). The tool took about 10 minutes to assemble plus time to dry--I glued pieces together in two stages to help reduce the chance of messing up or making a mess, but the glue dries fast. The total time spent doing the gutter clean-out was less than 1 hour, as I recall. Ironically, we had a contractor at our house for another issue about a month or two later, and when I griped to him about the gutter he said he'd tear the entire thing down and put up a better awning on my back porch with a regular gutter for $3,000, so I told him I'd see him next weekend and never looked back. Still, this thing plagued me for years, and I figured since I've got the footage, I may as well upload it in case it can help someone else. If you've got one of these disgraceful insults to engineering on your property and you are looking for help figuring out how to clean it: congratulations for finding your way here--you have my respect and my sympathy. I hope these videos help. This video is Part 3 and cuts straight to the cleaning. Part 1 describes the problem in detail, and Part 2 describes the tool I made to solve this problem. It's not an incredibly fast process if your gutters are as full as mine were, but I got it done. Materials needed: ---A couple feet of PVC pipe with 5/8" inner diameter ---Two PVC end pieces of compatible fit: One needs to be able to receive a mail garden hose end, and the other needs to have male threads so you can attach a hose sprayer onto it. Some kind of shutoff valve you can install into the PVC, if desired. Shutoff with a hose valve can work, too. ---A bit of PVC glue. Any kind is probably fine. We don't need this to survive 30 years under pressure inside a residential wall. ---A brass 90-degree hose nozzle attachment. The one shown in this video is designed to have a narrower hose attached to it. ---Some Teflon/plumber's tape for the brass-to-pvc sprayer nozzle connection (although it isn't super important--worst case scenario is it might dribble on you a bit with no tape, if you're okay with that. ---A small piece of sandpaper or steel wool, any grit 1.) Cut a single piece of 2-3' PVC (or whatever length you need) somewhere near one end. you need enough length to act as a handle before you install the shutoff valve. **You can use a hacksaw for the easiest option, or else a dremel tool, a Ginsu knife, or really just about anything if you're patient enough. 2.) Sand down any burrs at the ends and scuff the PVC surface where the glue needs to adhere using your sandpaper or steel wool. 3.) Assemble (dry fit--no glue) all of your pieces in a test run to make sure everything is suitable before disassembling and completing the assembly with glue. This might include ensuring the tool is a comfortable length for your situation, so take it outside and see how it might feel to work with. 4.) Disassemble then reassemble using glue. I recommend attaching one of your PVC pieces to your valve with glue and curing, then putting the other piece on with glue and curing. **Be very careful working with the glue as it's incredibly messy, sticky, and dries fast. If you get it on your floor or your furniture, it'll probably be there forever. **Give the glue time to fully cure (outside or in your garage, as the fumes can be strong) before running any water through this new tool. Read the bottle.