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Goodbye RLZ Engineering Closed Chamber CNC Race Head. Not sure what other quality of content it takes to get people fired up on this... This isn't some fairy tale and I reside in one of the most expensive places to survive in the world. A whole lot of hustle goes into this... My journey with this H2B configuration was the first swap/tuner and his throwing away of my walk-blocker and over-tensioning the timing belt which resulted in a snap, to the 2nd engine tuner who made some incredibly low figures on both street and dyno tuning, to me learning to tune myself (awesome experience), and finally this bullshit with my 1st engine blueprinter on the CNC Race Head who will remain nameless. Many have asked me to clarify what happened and here's the best way to describe it just so everyone understands. This was NOT a tuning issue. During the assembly/blueprinting process, my once-good friend and technician who will remain nameless until the time is right mechanically timed the motor incorrectly. The point of TDC was set a tooth off on the timing belt as all piston to valve clearances were identified, pistons were fly cut, and headgasket was ordered. Prior to him receiving the $3000 CNC Race Head, a full valve to valve clearancing was done with my buddy (@nomisind) as we spent 10 hours straight identifying safe points in which to run this +1mm intake valve configuration on this incredibly expensive head. So, the technician had all of our documentation and knew where to place the setup when degreeing the engine for safety. At one point in the build phase, I asked for a p2v chart of what we had landed at so far and noticed that he did some REALLY poor choice of cam gear selection which I KNEW would hit (0 IN, 0 EX) given my v2v chart that I previously laid out for him. That was likely the first time the valves hit. Further along, he told me the engine tuning wasn't very good and it wasn't running right as he moved the car around the shop. Knowing the tune that I previously put together for the engine, I suspected a few percentage off, but nothing that the closed loop +/- 5% on my wideband couldn't smooth out. He said something along the lines of, "I need this car out of here." I showed up with my laptop and started having to make some pretty drastic changes. Something didn't feel right and I asked him if he checked timing. He confirmed it was good to go. We went to health check the engine as we swapped from Integra to EG Civic Hatch and noticed MASSIVE amounts of carbon deposits. Didn't quite know what to think of it at the time, but I knew it wasn't good. I asked the prior technician for his records on the blueprinting and asked him of the possibilities of the timing being incorrect. We set the engine at TDC via long screwdriver, punched a mark into the flywheel which is necessary for H2B, and paint marked it. Started the engine and saw 6* at where the distributor was adjusted and ECU locked at 16* via Hondata. We adjusted the distributor and found a maximum of 8* available when all electronics showed us 16*. Just to really be sure, I unlocked the Hondata, jumped the ECU to enable the default 16* locked timing for a p28 ECU, and the same 8* showed. To really drive it home, I also enabled the Hondata 16* timing lock, and then MOVED it up and up until I saw 16* on the digital timing light. 23* is where we landed that figure. @nomisind and I called around asking other possible opinions without giving the whole story (we wanted unbiased answers), and every single one of the engine builders pointed to Mechanical Timing being incorrect. Thousands of miles later, you saw the damages... I'm approaching $15k on this engine. This is the point in life where you either cower and back down, or go all in. You can see where I've placed my chips. Thank you @nomisind for continuing to educate me to the best of your ability and being an amazing friend through all of this. #CNC #RLZ #Engineering #Race