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NOTE: I previously mentioned the amp IC is also the source of "death farts and restarts", and possibly popping and crackling issues. I've recently discovered this specific issue along with the dc offset pops are coming from failed capacitors around the DAC and sometimes a resistor next to the subwoofer connector. I have a new video up on my channel showing how to repair those issues here: • Fix your Death Farting HomePod! Trying your hand at some homepod repairs? In this video I'll show you how I get it done. Specifically a specific schottky diode and an amplifier IC. If you want to see how to take your homepod apart without destroying it, check my previous video here first: • How to Fix a HomePod that Won't Power On; ... The 60v5a schottky barrier diode can fail into a shorted state preventing the homepod from powering on once it gets too hot or is subject to too much voltage. The diode failure is sudden onset and your homepod will suddenly no longer power on at all. In the homepod's case, I'm not sure what the exact cause of failure is or what causes it, however, replacing the diode with another one seems to work long-term. Any 60v5a schottky barrier diode will work. The amplifier IC chip mentioned is what amplifies the subwoofer signal. It's honestly very unlikely this amp IC is the source of any of your problems unless it is obviously damaged. You can replace it with another oem 98-0431 from aliexpress while they are still in stock. I've also found IR4312M to work well so far. There are other IR4XXX chips that appear the same but unconfirmed if they will work! This is not a novice repair, I would suggest getting a couple chips in case you mess up! 60v5a Schottky Barrier Diode, part number PDS560-13. Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/d... Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/... Amplifier IC 98-0431 (OEM) from AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10050... Amplifier IC off the shelf alternative, part number IR4312M. Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/d... Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/... My $60 hot air rework station: https://www.amazon.com/Station-Solder... Weller Soldering Iron: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-A... Flux: https://www.amazon.com/Chipquik-Tack-... Copper solder wick: https://www.amazon.com/Solder-No-Clea... Solder: https://www.amazon.com/MAIYUM-63-37-S... Want to donate? Anything helps towards the cost of parts, tools, broken homepods to discover and share repairs, and better equipment for better quality videos! I have a CashApp at $NicsFix and PayPal here: https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted... Timestamps- 0:00 Intro 0:28 Tools Used 0:50 Starting with the diode / no power issue 1:08 Location of diode on board 1:15 When it fails, it's not intermittent and it won't magically start working again 1:22 How to test the diode while it's still on the board with a multimeter 2:15 Mind the tiny capacitors around the diode! 2:30 Hot air station settings (500c 90% airflow) 2:40 How to remove the diode from the board with the hot air station 4:14 Test your diode again once it's off the board to verify 4:40 Prepare the board and new diode 7:20 Place your new diode 7:38 Reflow the diode into place with hot air ~~~~~ 9:25 Amplifier IC location and issues caused 9:43 Same symptoms, different causes! Update yo stuff 10:14 Visual inspection for damage and Pin 1 identifier 11:10 You can get another OEM amp ic (for now) or try an alternative 12:00 WARNING! This is not an easy repair 12:29 How to remove the amp ic with the hot air station (saying) 13:25 Actually removing the amp ic with hot air 14:11 Oops I bumped some stuff nbd 14:30 Prepare the board for a new amp ic 16:40 Alinging the new amp ic before reflowing into place (sorry for the poor camera work) 17:05 Reflowing new amp ic into place with hot air 19:09 Outro