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uma-dressmaking-uma.blogspot.com - Fundamentals of tailoring A Patch is a form of mending and is used to cover holes or any torn parts of the garment with the same kind of material . It is done in places where darning cannot be done . A Patch is a form of mending and is used to cover holes or any torn parts of the garment with the same kind of material . It is done in places where darning cannot be done . 1. Plain Patch :---In this the seam used is called " counter hem seam " . Here the size of the sampler 6 " or 6 1/ 2 " square and that of the patch piece is 3 " or 3 1/ 2 " square . The patch can either be a square or rectangle . The patch piece should be 3 /4 " to 1 " bigger than the hole all round . The patch should be as inconspicuous as possible and this can be done efficiently as possible using suitable stitches , threads and working neatly with matching material . The patch piece should be of the same color , strength and appearance . If necessary the patch piece may be washed several times to bring it to the same strength and color . The thread used should be cotton on cotton , wool on wool , silk on silk . The selvedge and weft threads of the patch piece and the sampler must be made to match correctly .To work a plain patch place the right side of the patch piece over the wrong side of the sampler and straight by the selvedge threads . The weft threads must be straight by the weft threads of the sampler . Place the patch piece over the sampler taking care to see that the patch piece falls over the centre of the hole. Fold 1 / 4 " of an inch alround and then pin the selvedge sides first . Next , pin the two weft sides . Tack close to the edge starting in the middle of a selvedge side . fell the patch neatly alround , starting either in the corner of one of the sides or from the middle of one of the selvedge sides . The latter is better as it lessens bulk in the corners and prevents the corner from getting out of shape . FINISHING OF THE HOLE :---Turn the right side of the work towards the worker and make diagonal creases across the patch from the corners .Measure 1/4 " on the diagonal creases from the corners. Insert the scissors into the hole and cut along the diagonal creases up to these points , all of which should be straight . Fold back these flaps of the hole level with these points and cut . Snip these along the diagonals 1 / 6 " above the corners of the hole . Fold these raw edges , under starting with the selvedge side and using the needle to turn back the edges carefully at the corners . Tack close to the edge then finish the adjecent side and continue thus till all the sides are completed . Holding the right side of the work with the patch towards the worker ,top - sew or hem the edge of the hole of the patch , being careful to flattern eachside .