Brass Wire Inlay Start to Finish скачать в хорошем качестве

Brass Wire Inlay Start to Finish

I love my CNC (Shaper Origin), but CNC projects can sometimes look too much like the machine-made things that they are. But for the right project, brass wire inlay adds a beautiful hand-crafted element. It isn’t difficult, and it isn’t expensive. It is easy to design a unique inlay for each project, making each project a unique piece of personal art. What is the right project? Anything with a flat surface – tables, trays, coasters, picture frames are just some possibilities. I used this wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YQQF37?... I bought these flush cutters (Xuron Maxi-Shear Flush 2175): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBU0YC?... These needle-nose pliers (Xuron Flat Nose 485FN): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBSFM6?... This hammer (there are multiple hammers in the link – I bought the 16 ounce version (the video mistakenly says 8 ounce)): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BHHHNUY?... You are going to need thin CA glue and accelerator, and you might want some colored medium CA to fix flaws. I use Starbond brand, and that works fine. https://starbond.com I used these router bits (1.0mm x 4mm): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFVCHTT?... I tried to use the bits with a ¼ to 1/8 collet adapter (Amana brand). I’ve used the adapter many times on other bits, but the shank on these bits was just slightly too large to fit the adapter. I bought a 1/8 collet and that works fine. I used a Shaper Origin CNC router to cut the slots for the inlays. https://www.shapertools.com/en-us/origin Of course, any CNC machine would work fine. If you don’t have a CNC, you can use a trim router and a pattern. Freehand might work too. The tiny router bits don’t create much force when cutting, so it shouldn’t be hard to control a freehand router. Avoiding tight radius corners might be a challenge with freehand routing, but it is worth a try. The inlay design needs to be simple and avoid sharp corners. The wire is not going to curve into a corner with anything less than about 1/8th inch radius, and ¼ inch or more is easier to set the wire into. (If you are very patient and careful you might succeed with a 3/32 inch radius.) I suggest you use a piece of scrap to fine-tune the depth of cut. The brass ideally should be set fully to the surface of the wood. A teeny bit above might be OK, but anything below would be an issue. Anyhow, you need the depth to be accurate to within about 0.1mm, so there isn’t a lot of room for error. It isn’t hard to tap the wire into the slots. The step that takes some care is to cut the wire to fit the slot. Before you cut a segment of wire to length, tap in almost all of the wire for that segment, the line up the wire, the cutting side of the flush cutters and the end of the slot, so you can see the end of the slot and the cutting surface. Make your cut, then tap in the rest of the wire. Once all the wire is in, use medium CA to fix flaws (if you want), then soak all the wire with thin CA. Cure it with accelerator. Sand the project (I used 60 grit to 1,000 grit), and you are ready for finish! 00:05 Introduction 00:51 Design 02:52 Tools 04:34 Depth of cut 05:04 Setting the wire 13:37 Drum sander – entirely optional, and be very careful! 15:18 Random orbit sanding, grits 60 to 1,000 (and more flaw fixing) 18:16 Finish and conclusion Mountain Ranch Workshop is my woodworking and project vlog. Hand tools, power tools, accessories and everything that goes into a shop are my topics. Please like and subscribe, thanks very much!