Deep neck princess cut drafting professionally PART 3 скачать в хорошем качестве

Deep neck princess cut drafting professionally PART 3

PART 1    • Princess cut deep neck blouse making profe...   PART 2    • Princess Cut Deep Neck Blouse Back Part Dr...   This video is the third part of a series on professional drafting for a deep neck princess cut blouse. It focuses specifically on the front part drafting process, using detailed formulas for precision. ​Key Steps in Front Part Drafting ​Setup: The instructor advises using waste lining cloth or paper for the initial draft instead of the main fabric [01:02]. Ensure the folding is on your side and the open ends are away from you [01:34]. ​Shoulder Measurements: ​Full Shoulder: For the front part, use your exact full shoulder measurement divided by 2 (e.g., 15" / 2 = 7.5"). Unlike the back part, no extra inch is added here to ensure it sits perfectly on the body [01:48]. ​Neck Round: Divide your neck round measurement by 5 to determine the width (e.g., 13.25" / 5 ≈ 2.75") [03:03]. ​Shoulder Down: A standard 1-inch shoulder down is marked for all sizes [02:50]. ​Armhole and Chest: ​Armhole Depth: Calculated using the formula: (Middle Chest / 6) - 0.75". For a 35" chest, this results in approximately 5.1" [04:31]. ​Chest Width: To the chest measurement divided by 4, add a 2-inch "loosing" allowance for sizes up to 35" [09:21]. ​Shoulder Adjustment: Because this is a deep neck design, the shoulder width is reduced by a specific formula to prevent the neck from sagging [07:06]. ​Princess Cut Shaping: ​Apex Point: Mark the apex point by adding 0.5" to your actual measurement to account for shoulder seam allowance [15:15]. ​Width (Apex to Apex): Use the formula: Chest Round / 10 (e.g., 35" / 10 = 3.5") [18:04]. ​Dart Width: Based on the chest size, a 4-inch dart width is used at the waist for a 35" chest [19:38]. ​Finishing the Shape: The instructor demonstrates using a French curve and an A4 sheet of paper to ensure the side fitting and armhole curves are perfectly straight and professionally aligned [24:25].Video Chapters ​[00:00:00] Series Overview & Importance of Part 1 & 2 ​[00:01:21] Preparing the Drafting Fabric/Paper ​[00:01:41] Full Shoulder Calculation & Marking ​[00:02:50] Standard Shoulder Down Technique ​[00:03:03] Neck Round Formula for Width ​[00:04:31] Armhole Depth Calculation (Chest/6 Formula) ​[00:06:06] Deep Neck Shoulder Minus Chart & Adjustment ​[00:08:26] Middle Chest Marking & Loosing Allowances ​[00:11:00] Upper vs. Middle Chest Difference Adjustment ​[00:12:10] Front Armhole Depth (Loath) Marking ​[00:12:57] Armhole Round Cross Mark Formula ​[00:14:54] Marking Apex Point, Neck Deep & Total Length ​[00:17:49] Princess Cut Apex Width Calculation (Chest/10) ​[00:19:10] Waist Dart Calculation by Size Chart ​[00:20:40] Professional Princess Cut Curve Shaping ​[00:22:33] Balancing Side Seam Lengths ​[00:24:25] Using the Paper-Alignment Method for Straight Lines ​[00:26:13] Closing Remarks & Preview of Next Part