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The omnipresent silhouette of Nyiragongo dominates the lakeside city of Goma - a smoking colossus during the day and a surreal forge of hades radiating a mysterious red glow at night. Goma is the most dangerous city in the world to live. Any time, Nyiragongo can unleash rivers of molten lava to obliterate Goma in minutes. The city has been in the centre of nearly constant warfare for the past 20 years, including a spillover of the massacres in neighbouring Rwanda. Poverty, crime and lawlessness rule the streets. Where the stiff slope ends abruptly we reach the barren, wind-wracked summit rim. On the edge, a few sombre rocks overhang into the mist which is now being stirred by an icy wind. The mist, which is actually the eruption plume, comes from the crater. utes the crater of Nyiragongo clears. Leaning over the rocky ledge, I peer into the heart of the volcano. Brittle sheer walls ringed by circular platforms fall 400 metres down to a vast floor covered by solid lava. In the middle, a kaleidoscopic lake surface glows brilliantly through a fissured black crust like a fluorescent-orange spiderweb on the black wall. The surface undulates briefly before sudden burst of gases tear the darkened surface sending incandescent lava clots flying around. More fountains explode from the lake, blue smoke rises in billowing spirals as the agitated liquid violently swallows black plates of solid lava. A pillar of sulphurous gasses convects an offensive, choking stench.