How to repair a guitar neck ding? скачать в хорошем качестве

How to repair a guitar neck ding?

Eric Hamilton, of the Lark in the Morning Repair department, introduces us to repairing a ding on the back of the guitar neck. His comments: Meguiars buffing compound and sandpaper can be bought on Amazon. Super glue at Stewart MacDonald. I start by cleaning the area really well with alcohol (ok to use on a Taylor neck). Make sure the ding is perfectly level on the work surface. Use things (soft folded cloth works well) to raise and lower the guitar to make that happen. Then carefully drop some water-thin superglue (Stewart MacDonald) on a vertical toothpick over a paper towel lined trash can until a drop forms on the end of the toothpick - It might take several attempts until the toothpick becomes saturated. Keep your fingers at the opposite end so they don't stick. Then carefully transfer the drop to the instrument, putting a small folded square of paper towel under the toothpick/glue to prevent a mess if it drops off early during the transfer. Put a drop or 2 if necessary of the super glue in the center of the ding and let it spread to the edges of the crater. It then has to dry naturally and very hard. Overnight is best to let it sink to its lowest level. If necessary, I'll add a little more the next day if it has sunk too low. The idea is to get the superglue level above the level of the neck. It has to dry completely! Then I mask the area off within about 2 mm with blue trim tape, then shape the repair almost level to the surrounding area with a really fine file. I try NOT to touch anything but the glue "dome." Thinking of the file as a first level of sanding, I'll continue shaping using small squares of wet or dry sandpaper starting at 220 grit, then 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500, 5000, 7000, 10,000. As far as 12,000 and 15,000 and 20,000 if I have it. Start as much on top of the repaired area as possible and SLOWLY feather outwards as you continue to make the scratches finer and finer. The tape will come away naturally. Use wet paper and change often. Dry the area completely between passes, you don't want any debris creating problems by making deeper scratches! Be sparing from 220 through 1000. You want to avoid sanding through the surrounding clear coat. Get each level as perfect as possible before moving on. Once the "dome" is level and the scratches are malleable, somewhere between 800 and 1200, you're not removing much material, just scratches. After the final finishing sandpaper, rub it with a cotton cloth till glossy. Follow up the sanding (the blue tape will be long pulled away by now through the outward feathering process) with vigorous buffing using Maguiars No. # 2 then no 3. use your favorite guitar polish to finish. I like to buff with each compound about 10 times from wet to dry until the surface is brilliantly glossy. Each fresh buffing brings another layer of fine scratch removal and gloss level. Again, taper the buffing into the entire neck. You'll see quickly that a small ding can become a fine restoration of your neck finish. And it's beautiful when finished! One can try to minimise the working area but watch out for differences in hue if you don't buff out the whole neck. It's a delicate thing and sanding through the surrounding clear coat is probably of the greatest concern. Trying to match lacquer overlay can be a nightmare. Just be mindful along the way is my advice. Good luck! Eric