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I don't pay for axe handles. I purchased a couple of them long ago, and they didn't last any longer than the ones I carve myself. I'm trying something a little new with this one: Normally, the Internet Guru Squad will tell you that the grain needs to run parallel to the bit, but I've found this to be frustrating with the Red Oak that I'm using to carve my handles. For the hatchet, it works well enough, and I've had the same handle on that tool for well over a year with no problems, other than a little wiggle in the head. I'm going against the grain here. Since every handle I've made for this axe has split along a medullary ray, I figured I would run those parallel instead. IOW exactly the way that the forum guys say not to. Surprise? I've already chunked down a small tree and bucked several logs as of posting this and had no trouble so far. Collective wisdom isn't always the best source of information. Just because one book claims this is the "right" way to do it, doesn't make it right. Hickory is not the only, nor the best, wood for making axe handles. I don't care what anyone has to say on this topic. Hickory is popular because someone slapped a "genuine hickory" label on an axe handle years ago, and from there everyone assumed that it had to be the best wood, since it was being advertised. Red oak definitely isn't the best either, but it's available to me in bulk for free. I simply have to split it from the trees. Clues: hickory is NEVER cited as the best bow wood, and bows put up with a hell of a lot more than an axe ever should. Bows almost ALWAYS flex perpendicular to the grain, nearly never with it unless the bow is carved from lumber. Use your own brain, use your experience, and select the best wood that you can scrounge up. Don't follow the sheep. Sheep copy and repeat. Follow the wolf. Wolves improvise and adapt.