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In lieu of a registration fee, pay-what-you-can donations can be made to C-CAP: https://ccapinc.org/donate/ When Alinea Chef Grant Achatz took the stage of the 2008 StarChefs International Chefs Congress, he was in fighting position. He pushed back against the critics who say that molecular gastronomy is overrated and that chefs aren’t artists. “There’s room in cooking for far more than fish roasted on the bone with lemon, salt, and olive oil,” Achatz said. His innovation goes beyond even his food but also translates to service-ware, which was the focus of the talk. “Plates, forks, knives, bowls, they’ve been the same for 300 years,” he said, “yet gastronomy has moved forward at such a clip at this point that we need to catch up.” At Alinea, he worked with designer Martin Kastner of Crucial Detail to move off the plate and come up with alternatives. The eccentric utensils might seem gratuitous, but each had a functional or aesthetic value. A wax bowl with a protruding pin allowed the marriage of hot and cold textures in one dish. The wire “squids” for holding tempura prevented condensation and sogginess, and a vertical presentation made aroma a bigger factor. Achatz’s molecular philosophy attracted a huge following, and he helped popularize longer, intelligent tasting menus. “Food and dining can be fun,” the chef said at the Congress. “It can be provocative. It can be emotional. It can be exhilarating. It can be satisfying on mental and physical levels. I think it’s important that we chase that.”