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01 - 07 Caravan Daytime Running Light Prob Fixed Gauges Go Crazy Part 2 скачать в хорошем качестве

01 - 07 Caravan Daytime Running Light Prob Fixed Gauges Go Crazy Part 2 12 лет назад

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01 - 07 Caravan Daytime Running Light Prob Fixed Gauges Go Crazy Part 2
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01 - 07 Caravan Daytime Running Light Prob Fixed Gauges Go Crazy Part 2

There's only music! Just a QUICKLY POSTED photo slide of what I did to fix my problem. I posted this after a request so there are no bells or whistles to go with it for your entertainment, "Just the Facts Mam". Introduction: I have a 2002 Doge Grand Caravan that had a DRL problem. With the car on the drivers headlight would come on and the passenger headlight was out, when I turned on the headlights the opposite would happen. See Youtube:    • 01 - 07 Caravan Daytime Running Light Prob...   for part 1. This is very frustrating because even if the DRL's didn't work right I still need my headlights at night. This is what I did to fix it. Quick list of things I used off the top of my head. Tools: Needle nose pliers. Small Drill Bit set. I don't remember the size, don't twist just push in and out. or you can use a paper clip that has been roughed up with sand paper on one side. Use that side to push in and out of the pin holes to clean the round hole contacts. Hobby Knife Set. 20 Torque Tip Screw Driver. Toothbrush. Chemicals: Contact Cleaner or Rubbing Alcohol. Connector Grease. Get at auto parts store. Compressed Air. A Computer can of "Dust Off" works good. Instructions: 1. Remove the Negative battery connection, its the black bottom cable. 0:01 *** WARNING!!!!!!! **** do not drop or put a wrench across the battery terminals. The wrench will glow red hot and the battery may explode, spraying you and everything around it with Sulfuric Acid. Never short out your battery, always were safety goggles when working around batteries. NEVER PLACE TOOLS ON A CAR BATTERY! Except ONLY on the terminal you're working on, insulate the other one if you're not familiar with battery safety procedures. 2. Remove the Fuse/Relay Box cover top. 0:12 There are two side push tabs near the drivers fender that hold it on. Push these in towards the cover and pull up on the cover. The Tabs are not shown in the pictures but you can't miss them. 3. Remove the FCM Front Control Module, 0:12 to 0:35, by removing the four T-20 Torx tip screws. The one on the bottom left is a little tricky if you don't have a screw driver that holds Torx tips. Set the screws aside in a safe place for re-installation later. 4. Modify the Fuse/Relay Box: With the FCM out of the way locate the rectangle holes on the front of the Fuse/Relay Box. With a sharp pointed Exacto style blade, 0:36, widen the top of the holes so that you can see the top curve of the pins when looking straight into them from the front of the car. You may need a flashlight to see them. 0:56 to 1:03. The third pin from the right, 0:50, does not have a contact in the holes so you don't have to modify that hole. 5. Modify the FCM rectangle pins: With the FCM face down on a table in front of you, pins horizontal, running left to right. Using a small pair of needle nose pliers bend them about a degree or two to the left or right, directions doesn't matter, then angle them slightly about a degree or two towards the center of the module 1:06. There are some pictures of the FCM with the pins bent to much at 1:12, I showed them for what not to do. If your'e still not to sure compare time index pins at 1:06 angle to the pin angles at time index 1:12, you'll get the idea. You can use a small paper clip roughed up to remove the corrosion on the Fuse Box round holes by pushing it in and out of the round holes. 5a. Clean the pins on the FCM and the holes in the Fuse Box, then use some compressed air at about 15-20 PSI to dry the contacts out. A can of compressed air for computers is good too. 6. Apply a liberal amount of connector grease, to the pins and reinstall the FCM onto the Fuse/Relay Box. Do not over tighten the Torx tip screws, just snug them up and give them just a LITTLE more for good measure. 7. Reinstall the Fuse/Relay Box cover. 0:01 8. Reconnect the Negative battery cable. 0:01 9. Note when the battery is disconnected from the car, for an extended period of time, sometimes the ECM Engine Control Module forgets the collected performance data and returns all data to the default settings. Don't worry as you drive the car it will relearn all the performance data. Until it has relearned the performance data it may drive a little sluggish from what you remember. 10. This is the most important thing to remember: This worked on "MY" van, it is not guaranteed to work on your van. I'm not a qualified or professionally trained mechanic you must use this information at your own risk. I searched all over the web and YouTube for this information and couldn't find much. So I compiled all the information I could find and after careful consideration and some trial and error this is what I came up with, and it worked. Good luck if you do it. I hope it works. If you have more info please leave comments. I just may answer or even post it. Keith

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