Скачать с ютуб *SOLVED solution in description* Engine Tick 2012 Mustang GT Coyote 5.0 Engine в хорошем качестве

*SOLVED solution in description* Engine Tick 2012 Mustang GT Coyote 5.0 Engine

Replacing the rod bearings fixed it completely. Email me at [email protected] if you'd like to talk. What I've found is that it's usually the rod bearings becoming damaged due to oiling issues. Ford reused the bearings from the previous lower power 4.6. They're not really designed for the increased power and pressure. On top of that these engines barely have enough oil capacity or oiling capability. Combine all that and the rod bearings become slightly damaged under almost any situation but ideal oil conditions. Luckily the crank is forged so the super soft bearings typically cause no damage from minor bearing failure. I ran for over 10k miles ticking and had zero crank damage. https://www.amazon.com/Clevite-CB-144... You'll need a full set of 8 bearings. This is the part number I used. Summit no longer carries them but Amazon does. You want Clevite CB-1442A bearings. Here's the repair process. Jack the mustang up all 4 corners and rest on jack stands. Do not support the front end by the suspension or K member. Remove the front wheels. Unbolt the K member bolts and let it hang by the struts, this is fine and will help during reassembly. Undo the motor mount bolts on the subframe side, not engine side, from the top looking down into the engine bay. Put a strong 2x6 or similar across the strut towers.. Using ratchets wrap one around the 2x6 and around one motor mount. Repeat for the other motor mount. Lift the motor up until it stops easily moving. It has been a number of years I don't believe I had to remove any coolant hoses or the intake but you may need to, both are super fast and easy to do. It'll only be a few inches of lift but you'll need all of that space for later. You could use an engine cherry picker if you have one, I did not. Go back under the vehicle and remove the oil pan bolts, there are a lot. Don't forget to drain the oil. Now carefully slide the oil pan back between the dropped K member and the transmission. This is why we lifted the engine; it'll just barely fit. Remove the pickup tube and oil pan baffle. You will now be staring at all 8 connecting rods and their cap bolts. This was the goal. *** Starting with the forwardmost connecting rod cap, remove the cap bolts using a 12 sided 12mm socket. I've checked it is a 12 sided 12mm. Make sure you buy a high quality socket you DON'T want to strip these bolts as they are going to be reused they are not torqued to yield. Remove the 2 bolts and the rod cap, it is directional and will only seat correctly 1 direction. Mark it with a grease pen if you want. Using a flat head screwdriver you can remove the bearing half from the cap. Get it to slide a bit and you can pop it out by hand. Be careful not to damage the cap bearing seating surface. Do the same for the upper half of the bearing still attached to the connecting rod. It will slide around the crankshaft easily. Check the crank for any visible damage. There should be none as these are forged cranks and stupid strong but verify with your fingernail if there are gouges. Using assembly lube, install the new bearing halves into the rod and rod cap. Torque the rod cap bolts to the following from the Ford 5.0 repair manual. DO NOT use the other easier to find specs for the BOSS 302 it'll lock up your motor. It is a multi stage torquing and you must complete each stage for each bolt before moving to the next stage. Notice units go from lb-in to lb-ft. For the deg one just eyeball it to slightly past 90deg. Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in). Stage 2: Tighten to 38 Nm (28 lb-ft). Stage 3: Tighten an additional 105 degrees *** Repeat everything I put between *** above for each connecting rod. Do them 1 at a time the caps are NOT interchangeable with other rods. You can put it in 6th gear and rotate the wheels if you need to move a connecting rod closer to the bottom of the engine to help reach. If you accidentally push a connecting rod too far just remove the corresponding spark plug and use a dowel or something thin/strong to gently push the cylinder back down, I did this myself. If you have an automatic just rotate the crank bolt clockwise using a ratchet with the transmission in neutral. Once all the rod bearings are replaced and torqued down you reassemble everything in reverse of disassembly. There are no other major torque specs to be aware of. Use hand tools only to put the oil baffle, pickup, and pan back on. For the K member having a buddy help align it makes a huge difference. Drop the engine back down last and do not forget to crank the motor mount bolts down. Check the motor mount ones again after about 50mi of driving. Before starting the engine fill it up with cheap oil and a fresh filter. After about 50-100mi of driving, drain all the oil and replace the filter again, but with a good high quality oil this time. The cheap oil was just to clean out the engine from any remaining soft shavings.