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https://www.seolady.co.uk/blown-fuse-... DIY: Replace Wylex Rewireable Fuses with Modern MCB Upgrade - No Electrician Needed! Safety Guide & FAQ - Spoiler: it was just single, old and grey me. The street carried on as normal while I stood in the hallway flicking switches like a confused DJ. #MCBfuse miniature circuit breakers (MCBs) Upgrade I don't want to ask for help, I wanted to learn and learn safely. Here I am, I've lived to help you and you can visit my article for more photos. Replace Blown Fuse Wire and Retrofit 1970s Bakelite Fuse Box with Modern MCBs I didn’t set out to become an expert in rewirable fuse boxes. I just wanted a cup of tea. The kettle wouldn’t boil, the microwave clock was off, and the office lights were dead. At first, I thought nothing of it. The dishwasher had just finished and I assumed I’d overloaded something or nudged a switch. It wasn’t until I clocked the silent kettle and the lack of power in the office that I realised the entire ground floor was out. No post from the street group, no lights flickering next door, just me, standing in the kitchen with a broken brew and a fuse box that hadn’t been updated since the 1970s. #bakelite #renovation #fusebox Living in a Victorian house often means embracing the quirks of yesteryear — high ceilings, wonky floors, and, in my case, a 1970s Wylex fuse box still clinging to the wall like a relic from a time when avocado bathrooms were all the rage. And today, during what I initially thought was a full-blown power cut, I discovered something a little more… enlightening. Can I Pull the Fuses Out Safely to Examine the Wire Now I’ve Flipped the #breaker Back On? Short answer: no, not safely — not with that fuse box. With your older Wylex rewirable fuse board, each fuse holder is live when the main switch is on. That means if you try to pull out a fuse while the power is on, you’re potentially exposing yourself to 230 volts of “surprise-you’re-dead” mains electricity. Here’s the safest way to check each fuse: Switch off the main switch first. That’s the white one on the far right with the red “ON” label. Flip that to OFF — this isolates all power to the circuits and makes it safe to remove and inspect the fuses. Pull out each fuse one at a time. Check the fuse wire inside if it’s a rewirable one — if the wire is broken or looks burnt, that’s the culprit. Yours seem to be cartridge-type fuses, so check for obvious heat damage, burn marks, or melted plastic on the fuse holder. Double-check your labelling. Since you’ve got one marked “?”, this is a good time to figure out what it controls — maybe plug in a lamp and flick that switch back on while the others are out. A bit of detective work now could save you future headaches. Don’t poke or prod inside the fuse box. Even with the main switch off, internal parts can hold a residual charge, and vintage gear doesn’t have modern insulation standards. Turn the main switch back on once everything’s back in place. If you get repeated tripping again after doing this, it’s time to call a sparkie. Diagnosing a Blown Lighting Circuit in a 1970s Consumer Unit After switching the main fuseboard OFF (safety first, always), I removed each fuse carrier to inspect them. And sure enough, the one marked “Lights” had blown. It was stamped 5 AMP, with a reassuringly retro white dot — a colour code used back in the day to help identify fuse ratings at a glance. In this case, 5 amps = lighting circuit.