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Hamburger Steak (“hambagu”) from Tamu Tamu-a snack bar in Kichijo-ji, Tokyo, 1967 with images from Japan—Deep Snow tour with SUEMARR 2019, Kyoto, “Iki atari batari" website: www.anyahinkle.com Sub Rosa Subscription: www.patreon.com/anyahinkle Why hamburgers, you might ask? The ハンバーグ or “hamburger steak” is one of the most common restaurant and home foods in Japan. You may notice the use of katakana here, the alphabet that is used for foreign things. Similarly, the Japanese, especially in the 20th century, had two types of restaurants that served two types of cuisines: “yo-shoku” or “Western or European foods” and wa-shoku” which served Japanese foods. It’s so interesting to me how things are so clear cut in Japan of what is Japanese and what is “other.” The isolationist mindset was broken during the Meiji era in the late 1800s as Japan rushed to embrace the West. There are two types of hamburgers in Japan. There is the kind we normally think of, the kind inside a bun, called “hambaga-,” introduced after the war by American GIs. But the one we will make today is the Hamburger Steak, basically Salisbury Steak, called “hambagu” and is probably more closely tied to Hamburg, Germany and probably came in earlier. It is typically served with rice. Today we are going to make the hamburger steak using a popular recipe that May-san, my mother in law taught to me. Before Japan was opened to the West in the 1850s, red meat was considered dirty and not commonly eaten. In fact, consuming red meat was illegal until the Meiji reforms in 1868! May had never eaten ground beef before she was 19, which was about the time she moved from the isolated tropical island of Amami Oshima, near Okinawa, to the big city of Tokyo in the Kichijo-ji neighborhood. It was 1961. She was surrounded by students, antigovernment activists, beatniks, artists, writers, musicians, poets, drunks, travelers, Zen wanna-bes, partiers, philosophers, scholars, photographers, expats. May and her friends called themselves “bums” with a double meaning with “bohemians” from the “bum academy,” a wild band of anti-establishment characters including the famous poet Nanao Sasaki. Around 1967, she started a “snack bar” (“tsunaku ba—“) which is usually a very small drinking place with a small menu of foods. She and her husband Goshi called it “Tamu Tamu” which is the sound of the tom-tom drum reverberating through the air and people communicating to each other through its vibrations and spirit waves traveling across the world. When May-san started Tamu Tamu she researched all over Tokyo for her hambagu recipe. Each place had their own recipe, and she adopted something close to the recipe of Suzu-ya, a famous hamburger restaurant in Tokyo that had a unique twist to it: a little nutmeg! Picture yourself in the 60s in Tokyo with a folk singer strumming a guitar, wildly dressed members of the “bum academy” drinking beer and smoking cigarettes, deep in conversation on art, philosophy—perhaps the images of Inkyo Cafe and Suzunari in Kyoto from the video give you a feel for these small restaurant/bars! Hambagu is made by combining ground meat (called “minchi” or “mince”), either all beef or “aibiki” which is a combination of ground beef and ground pork, which is generally less expensive in Japan. I also think this combination makes it more rich and delicious. Add in toasted bread crumbs or panko, egg, sautéed onion, garlic powder, salt and pepper, and maybe a little parsley. AND nutmeg! Make the mixture into patties and sauté them as you would a typical hamburger. Serve with grated daikon radish (oroshi) and ponzu sauce (citrus dressing) and/or tonkatsu sauce (a sweet worcestershire-flavored sauce) and rice. The daikon radish has a spicy and fresh flavor that really cuts the heaviness of the meat and oil, and the citrus flavor in the ponzu adds tang and really perks things up. I decided to make oven-baked French fries served with ketchup on the side…after all, I am America-jin (I am an American person)! Enjoy!